Reband Exhaust Install, Again

Hi All:

I know from reading every reband exhaust thread several times that these can be a bi$%h to put on. Thus, I figured I'd leave it to the pros and let them mess with finagling it into place. They failed and I had them re-install the stock system.

Before I give more specifics on the difficulty of it - I don't want to run down Reband, just want a system that fits - I'll inquire of Reband directly. Does anyone have any tips and tricks to get it into place without grinding and parts relocation? I appreciate any help or advice.

Peter

Two parts that require modification are the rear brake master cylinder cover and right hand side cover. Yes they are a ***** to put on as all parts are very close and tight.
I posted a reband install guide some time ago, I will try to find it.
One other owner I know of has had some alignment issues tho.

Hi Tony:

I knew I had read of a more detailed install write-up from someone, but wasn't able to find it by searching the last few days. I'll look again because that sure would be appreciated.

We could see that the sidearm cover and master cylinder cover would need those major modifications, but even before that, we couldn't get the headers sealed. One couldn't tighten the headers enough because the pipes were up against the engine and bolts in several places, preventing a proper seal. I figured we'd have to grind down a bolt or something, but not grind away at the engine itself. Here is a picture with chalk marks of 3 places where it touched.

Thanks,

Peter

This is what I did:
1. Clean old header copper gaskets and exhaust ports.
2. Smear (thin) heat resistant silicone both sides.
3. Repeat with NEW copper gaskets as well as the old ones.
4. Slide flanges on pipes.
5. Fit pipes loosely into position starting the nuts only.
6. Silicon inside of muffler collector about 5-10mm inside. On all three pipes muffler end.
7. Fitting the muffler can be a gin....... You need to have this loose (no bolts)Work out which header pipes are the closest in alignment, them wigglethe header pipes and muffler until all three header pipes go in the collector.
8. Once this has been done bolt your muffler on and start tightening the headerpipes trying to keep the flanges parallel. Once you have the flanges firmed upwith a spanner (you won't get a socket on to the front bolt on the second port)start her up give it a rev (blows excess silicon out, don't have your car parkedbehind it as I did)...... got covered in silicone did not notice till the next day after it dried.Get the pipes hot, let cool then retention the exhaust nuts. Repeat twice more.
NOTE: You should not ride more than a few minutes without havin g the new tune put in because you can run the risk of damaging the coating, be it ceramic or chrome.This is pretty much how Nev Lush advised me to do....Best of luck

Maybe double or even triple the gaskets to gain enough adjustment. Talk to Ric at reband.

Awesome, Mittzy. Thank you. I shall give it another try.

Were you able to really firm up the header flanges after the hot/cool cycles? We didn't try that. We also didn't use both gaskets and the heat resistant silicone inside the headers. Perhaps those would solve the leaking headers from today.

Also, did you just grind away at the back of the master cylinder, or did you move the whole bracket forward? Sidearm cover just ground down as well? We were concerned that even if we ground away at the MC, the fluid line was still way to close to a pipe, which would then overheat the fluid and likely damage the line.

You're giving me some renewed hope here, so this is great.

I only ground away some of the chrome cover on the master Cylinder and did not move it still have not cut my side cover - I have just left it off for now

Very good. I shall now stop with the questions and have another go at it tomorrow, this time on my own. Thanks again.

Best of luck, my friend!

How much did you spend on this setup??? I'll grind on your bikes for free...