New member from Michigan with the dreaded "click problem"

[Nutcase76]

¿Y si el problema es el relé de arranque? Puedes puentear los contactos
I have tried brand new relay and also OEM relay from the black bike with no change.

Google:

What if the problem is the starter relay? You can bypass contacts

 

[Taurobiker]

Y la piña (botonera) derecha ?? Como tienes 2 Rocket puedes montar la botonera que estás seguro que funciona en la otra moto si cambias las piezas (relé, botonera, motor de arranque, etc) puedes ir aislando el problema y puede ser la instalación eléctrica que hay entre estas piezas
Un cable en mal estado, un conector...


DeepL:

And the button right ?? As you have 2 Rockets, you can mount the button panel that you are sure works on the other bike. If you change the parts (relay, button panel, starter, etc) you can isolate the problem and it can be the electrical installation between these parts
A bad cable, a connector...

 

[priam]

welcome from windy scandinavia.

hope, you've solved the problem

 

[Ianrocket]

Have been an R3 owner for over a year but have had most of my questions answered without having to ask any of my own. But now I'm absolutely stumped with this dang clicking on start u .
There is absolutely no rhyme or reason when I will get the click. Sometimes when it's cold. Sometimes when it's hot. Sometimes it will start after 3 or 4 clicks and sometimes 30 or 40. The headlight goes out ever time I push the starter button. Clutch switch is working because I can hold the start button in and slowly pull the clutch in and can hear the click when it makes contact. Click is coming from the actual starter.
The one with the issue is the 2006 maroon tribal. So far I have swapped over the starter, battery, starter relay from the black one. The black one has shown no issues with all my parts on it. I have also added a second grounding cable. I have pulled the starter switch apart and cleaned it with contact cleaner and q-tips.
What am I missing? Absolutely pulling my hair out trying to trace this down. I'm currently in Kissimmee Florida for a 10 week job and have the 2 Rockets, the Sprint ST, and the wife's America down here. Anyone have a clue at all what to check next?

I had the same problem.
I changed the relay with no change .
It was too with the power going to the relay.
I put a in-line relay with a thicker cable going through from battery to the starter solenoid ,,,, problem solved.
Bigger kick to the solenoid

 

[EasTexRIII]

I had the same problem.
I changed the relay with no change .
It was too with the power going to the relay.
I put a in-line relay with a thicker cable going through from battery to the starter solenoid ,,,, problem solved.
Bigger kick to the solenoid

Show us what relay you added please

 

[Ianrocket]

I know, it was a long post. The last paragraph explained that I'm in Kissimmee Florida for 10 weeks on a job and brought 4 bikes down with me. We are getting 3-6 inches of snow tonight back at home so I'm glad to be down here

hi from Woking in England.
It's very simple fit a fused larger cable directly to the starter and the one coming from the button fit to a relay somewhere down that cable.
Do the same to the front lights, via a new fused cable with two relays for high and low
I have a 2006 model, don't listen to your triumph dealer fit the new thrust plate and bearing and arm in the clutch,,, don't leave the stupid moped size one in there it doesn't work.
Message me on i.Court@sky.com for any more advice

 

[Ianrocket]

Here are some pictures of the old clutch and new parts, the old one only ran for 18 months but they didn't bother to admit a bad design or fault

 

[Pete]

hey nutcase
Search for “the famous starter click” to see info on solving the click on my roadster. Triumph copper crimp terminals are sh!t, the female side loses tension with a bit of heat. I found the female terminals inside the start relay holder needed to be removed and squashed a little bit with pliers to make sure they gave a good connection with the male spade terminal on the relay. Bad connection at the start relay stops a full 12v getting to the starter resulting in a click when the start solenoid closes but does not have enough voltage to turn the starter.

As an update to this post - the low voltage to the starter returned within a couple of months so rather than go through the process of tracking down the dirty connection to beat the click I fitted a second relay.
I connected the second relay to the trigger side of the oem start relay and the battery and the starter. I've had no trouble (2yrs) since fitting the second relay under the right side cover.