Help, please! Engine overheating 🥵

[imcool]

No, and I feel extremely confident that has nothing to do with it. I've been running Zerex G05 for over 20,000 miles. This first happened many many miles ago (10-15K) and just came up again for the first time since then.

Update- TuneEcu shows the P0117 Coolant Temperature Sensor code. I cleared it and (for now, anyway) no more overheating based on a neighborhood hoodlum run. Either that sensor is "tempermental," or my other theory about an air pocket moving into the system because the overflow tank was so low is correct. I figure someone like @TURBO200R4 might be able to confirm or shoot that idea down.

would you know, how long OEM coolant last if the can / jug is not opened?
I have 1 gallon sitting with for 2+ years

 

[Journeyman]

would you know, how long OEM coolant last if the can / jug is not opened?
I have 1 gallon sitting with for 2+ years

I don't- sorry.

Seems like there would be an expiration date on it somewhere. I would think it would be good for a long long time.

 

[Journeyman]

on mine i run it very low in the over flow tank because it blows most of the fluid out. now if the system is not leaking then you could run it empty and not have a problem as long as the radiator was full.
i suspect that you have a leak or your fan is not working. you can use your tuneecu to trigger the fan or le t it idle for a while to see if it comes on.
its easy to check fuse somes some times they (fuses) just give up the goat and burn out..
i now run a small tank bolted to my crash bar and it stays about 1/3 full.
a friend of mine call and was stuck about 50 miles away with the heat light on because he was in a road work area so he got off the main road and after thing a while i advised him to turn around and head back to tucson thinking he would be ok when he got back up to speed
so made it back and he found a blown fan fuse. may have been bad for a long time the construction zone caused the bike to heat up.
hth
problems could be bad fuse,leaking rad sys,bad temperature sending unit,bad wires, bad fan motor,
if you need help just sing out.

All good ideas, but I was just 2 miles from home, so not a situation on a hot day or long idle. The fan came on when I got it back home and reset the code.

I could have under-filled the radiator overflow when doing the 40k service. I don't think I have a leak (time will tell).

Sounding most likely that it's a bad temp sensor (pretty sure @Nashvegas had that issue) that is working intermittently.

 

[Nashvegas]

No, and I feel extremely confident that has nothing to do with it. I've been running Zerex G05 for over 20,000 miles. This first happened many many miles ago (10-15K) and just came up again for the first time since then.

Update- TuneEcu shows the P0117 Coolant Temperature Sensor code. I cleared it and (for now, anyway) no more overheating based on a neighborhood hoodlum run. Either that sensor is "tempermental," or my other theory about an air pocket moving into the system because the overflow tank was so low is correct. I figure someone like @TURBO200R4 might be able to confirm or shoot that idea down.

Yep, “temperamental“ is exactly what it was. It didn’t matter what my coolant level was at the time. It would manifest itself when I got in traffic or start/stop in a small town. Open road was fine. Start it up, turn it off, start it up, turn it off, and it would sometimes start working again. It drove me nuts tracking it down. It is a little finned rectangular module right above the oil filter. Center/left if you are looking at the engine from the front. Kind of a pain to get to, but you have bled your clutch before so it should be no problem for you. I can get you the part number if you need it. But you will recognize it in a schematic. Has been working like a champ for a couple of years now.

 

[Journeyman]

Yep, “temperamental“ is exactly what it was. It didn’t matter what my coolant level was at the time. It would manifest itself when I got in traffic or start/stop in a small town. Open road was fine. Start it up, turn it off, start it up, turn it off, and it would sometimes start working again. It drove me nuts tracking it down. It is a little finned rectangular module right above the oil filter. Center/left if you are looking at the engine from the front. Kind of a pain to get to, but you have bled your clutch before so it should be no problem for you. I can get you the part number if you need it. But you will recognize it in a schematic. Has been working like a champ for a couple of years now.

Thanks- I'll order it today. So, did you think the bike was actually overheating, or the sensor was just goofy? I couldn't be sure on mine.

The red level reading was pegged and didn't change after 15 minutes of sitting on the side of the road and the radiator cap (under the decorative cover) was actually cold. Rest of the bike was hot, as expected, but not sure if hotter than it should be, as I don't tend to feel around it normally.

#29? Fan, PWM Controller($236.24)
T2507700

I found my post for when this happened a year ago, along with @Nashvegas information....

Coolant Temperature Sensor Mystery

Has anyone had a coolant temperature sensor go bad on the 2.5s? I was about 10 miles from home when my engine check light came on and a temperature warning. It brought up the temperature gauge and it was pegged all the way to the top (solid red)! I pulled over immediately. The bike didn't seem...

www.r3owners.net

 

[Nashvegas]

Thanks- I'll order it today. So, did you think the bike was actually overheating, or the sensor was just goofy? I couldn't be sure on mine.

The red level reading was pegged and didn't change after 15 minutes of sitting on the side of the road and the radiator cap (under the decorative cover) was actually cold. Rest of the bike was hot, as expected, but not sure if hotter than it should be, as I don't tend to feel around it normally.

#29? Fan, PWM Controller($236.24)
T2507700

I found my post for when this happened a year ago, along with @Nashvegas information....

Coolant Temperature Sensor Mystery

Has anyone had a coolant temperature sensor go bad on the 2.5s? I was about 10 miles from home when my engine check light came on and a temperature warning. It brought up the temperature gauge and it was pegged all the way to the top (solid red)! I pulled over immediately. The bike didn't seem...

www.r3owners.net

Yes, #29. But It sounds like your issue may be different. Water pump, thermostat maybe? Mine would overheat like a car. Radiator hot and steam/water puking out. Time/waiting didn’t seem to make a difference but cycling on/off did. When the fans finally did kick on temperature would come down, but that didn’t mean they would be working 15 minutes later. When I would hook the computer up/diagnostics, I could make the fans come on every time. But it was still a bad sensor. If your fans are coming on, it is something different.

 

[Nashvegas]

It could be air in the system, that would be the easiest fix. I would top off the radiator, fill the aux tank and then idle up to operating temp, feel radiator water, run a bit and put caps back on. If that doesn’t fix it I would suspect thermostat or water pump. Pretty sure it would be one of those, especially if the radiator water stays cold.

 

[imcool]

Thanks- I'll order it today. So, did you think the bike was actually overheating, or the sensor was just goofy? I couldn't be sure on mine.

The red level reading was pegged and didn't change after 15 minutes of sitting on the side of the road and the radiator cap (under the decorative cover) was actually cold. Rest of the bike was hot, as expected, but not sure if hotter than it should be, as I don't tend to feel around it normally.

#29? Fan, PWM Controller($236.24)
T2507700

I found my post for when this happened a year ago, along with @Nashvegas information....

Coolant Temperature Sensor Mystery

Has anyone had a coolant temperature sensor go bad on the 2.5s? I was about 10 miles from home when my engine check light came on and a temperature warning. It brought up the temperature gauge and it was pegged all the way to the top (solid red)! I pulled over immediately. The bike didn't seem...

www.r3owners.net

if you end up uninstalling the older PWM , can you please share picture of connector black one, i can only find one picture online and it doesnt show black connector, I am curious how many pins are in black connectors so I can find cross reference cheaper part.

 

[Nashvegas]

if you end up uninstalling the older PWM , can you please share picture of connector black one, i can only find one picture online and it doesnt show black connector, I am curious how many pins are in black connectors so I can find cross reference cheaper part.

I dug around in the garage.

 

[imcool]

I dug around in the garage.

thanks so much

It’s a 12V automotive BLDC fan controller module (8-pin interface) with PWM + enable control.
A 3-phase BLDC motor driver + PWM control IC + MOSFET power stage

Pin meaning

• RED (+) → Battery +12V supply
• BLACK (-) → Ground
• BLUE (PWM IN) → Speed control signal (duty cycle input)
• YELLOW (ENABLE) → ON/OFF logic gate
• WHITE (+) → often tach feedback or secondary signal
  
  
  I am digging around to find replacement aftermarket, lets see