Front tire / wheel

warp9.9 said:
Boydster its not in the tool kit I used a 3/4 Allen wrench works fine.

You sure about that? I thought the "spark plug" spanner was also a 19mm tool for the wheels on the other end...
 
The front axle is not torqued in very tight. I use two allens together (12mm and 6mm ) to get the axle out (too cheap to buy the right tool). The wheel has 2 spacers that are not identical. Better check to see if they pulled your dust caps off to install your wheel backasswards like any moron or stooge with a half-brain would. As far as your bearings running the wheel backwards won't damage the bearings, they aren't directional like the tire. Use your finger and rotate the bearing inner race and as long as it doesn't feel like your spinning gravel in a clothes dryer you're fine. The wheel is a snap in and out since there's no speedo cable to frustrate the bejesus out of you. Pulling the brake calipers is definately required. Remember to pump the front brake lever before you take a test ride. Nothing worse than grabbing a hand full of nothing with the front lever :shock: when you really really want to stop.
 
Juggernaut said:
warp9.9 said:
Boydster its not in the tool kit I used a 3/4 Allen wrench works fine.

You sure about that? I thought the "spark plug" spanner was also a 19mm tool for the wheels on the other end...

Nope. I tried.
 
The front axle should be torqued to 65nm which translates to 47ft.lbs. I believe. I just torqued mine to 50ft.lbs. last week when I changed the tire out. Like atomsplitter said Not very tight
 
atomsplitter said:
The front axle is not torqued in very tight. I use two allens together (12mm and 6mm ) to get the axle out (too cheap to buy the right tool). The wheel has 2 spacers that are not identical. Better check to see if they pulled your dust caps off to install your wheel backasswards like any moron or stooge with a half-brain would. As far as your bearings running the wheel backwards won't damage the bearings, they aren't directional like the tire. Use your finger and rotate the bearing inner race and as long as it doesn't feel like your spinning gravel in a clothes dryer you're fine. The wheel is a snap in and out since there's no speedo cable to frustrate the bejesus out of you. Pulling the brake calipers is definately required. Remember to pump the front brake lever before you take a test ride. Nothing worse than grabbing a hand full of nothing with the front lever :shock: when you really really want to stop.

Thanks, Splitter. Got the job done and went out for a few hours just around town.

I noticed the 2 different spacers. They only fit in 1 way with the seals 'cause they are different diameters. So the spacers got flipped right along with the wheel.

Used the 3/4 back end of the 5/8 spark plug socket to get the axle loose. Used a 5/8 allen, 1/2 drive, to adapt my torque wrench to the sp socket. Worked great. 47 ft lbs.

Checked the bearings when I had the wheel off, they feel smooth in both directions. Kept em in there.

As soon as the axle was torqued, I checked the alignment of the discs to the calipers. Perfect. The shouldered spacer is now on the left. It was on the right.

I can still feel the uneven wear on the tire, but it feels better and makes less noise. I'm gonna run it for a while and see how it continues to wear.

Thanks for the post.
 
RocketCap'nTodd said:
Flip it around, and ride it until the rear is shot. Then put a set on (correctly), and tighten your headstock. If its' still got the stock shocks, replace them. It'll be just like getting another new bike!

When I had the front wheel in the air, I noticed the headstock seemed more loose than I'm accustomed to. It'll flop from side to side.

Rear shocks are already Icons. She sits nice n low in back. I ride solo.

Thanks Todd.
 
Alot of GOOD advice on this board huh?
Friendly bunch, don't matter where you're from,
or what your political affiliation is (long as you're not a liberal) :wink:
Guys and girls always willing to help out.
 
Back
Top