Equal Length Routing

hombre

Nitrous
Joined
Dec 31, 2006
Messages
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Computer programs dictated all of my IC SC R3's exhaust parameters. Here's one of the few things I get to decide.. the routing of the primary tubes. What you see are mock-ups of the actual tube lengths. Obviously, the can will go under the rear-rear set.
 
Looks can be deceiving... keep in mind that the mock-up tubes are not as close to the engine as the actual pipes will be. The collector and pipes get tucked in next to the frame. :rolleyes:

See that wooden block? That has been measured to provide adequate ground clearance at the lowest point, even when leaned all the way over. Something I do regularly with the Pirellis and rear-rear sets.
 
Due to equal length constraints, only the positions of #1 & #2 are fungible... #3 must go where shown.
 
so you can't follow the same path back as the jars? it would tuck in nice and tight and put the can in an ideal location right behind the rear set. should look **** nice at that........
 
Looks good. :cool:

I am assuming that the primary lengths (recommended from Burns or other sources) that you are using, are from the valve seat to the fire cone in the merge collector. Is this correct?

Are you going to cut and weld mandrel bends yourself, or have this done in single or multiple pieces for each primary? Are the head flanges coming from a local source, or from OZ?

I am interested in the final results - especially with the cam and compressor.
 
Looks good. :cool:

I am assuming that the primary lengths (recommended from Burns or other sources) that you are using, are from the valve seat to the fire cone in the merge collector. Is this correct?

Yes, that's correct, and that length is divided into 3 stepped diameters of tubing.

Are you going to cut and weld mandrel bends yourself, or have this done in single or multiple pieces for each primary? Are the head flanges coming from a local source, or from OZ?

The primaries will be cut and welded from U-bends by Doug at ARC... I'm not qualified for the necessary precision (equal length within 1/4"). The exhaust port adapters & head flanges are from Neville Lush Racing in OZ.

I am interested in the final results - especially with the cam and compressor.

Nev also likes the way this exhaust is shaping up, and has given me some interesting suggestions on changing his cam timing for more power. I'd love to explore this, given I have the dyno for testing each timing change, but it's a lot of work to open and close the engine just for the knowledge base. :eek:
 
so you can't follow the same path back as the jars? it would tuck in nice and tight and put the can in an ideal location right behind the rear set. should look **** nice at that........

No, that's not possible due to the equal length and relatively short length requirements of the primary tubes. Also, the fewer bends... the better the exhaust flow. Long primaries are for stock cammed, naturally aspirated R3s.
 
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