installed 2nd Rikon Raptor today

ozzman go ahead and be the sacrificial hillbilly :rolleyes: if it looks comarable to what others r running try it
 
A deforming sidewall on that wholly unreinforced portion of a car tire seems to be a recipe for potential disaster, IMO.

I can only speak authoritatively about this based on 6400 miles of experience on a Toyo Proxes T1R 225/55 16, which when pushed hard in the twisties, will scuff the sidewalls up about 2" above the tread. if you don't charge hard in the turns, you more than likely will not see much, if any, sidewall wear, obviously minimizing your risk exposure.
 
I have 29000 on my Riken and the sidewall has been scuffed because I rode it flat for about 2 miles. The operative word is I rode it that way. I wouldn't have been able to ride a Metz flat without destroying the tire and probably the rim too. My tread edges are smooth from cornering and I keep around 30 lbs because I like the firmness in corners. With 2 up the wall gives some. Knock on wood, Find-Flat-II, has only had the one flat.
 
It's easy enough to fix a bulging sidewall .... air pressure. :confused:

We use a common trick in SCCA racing, we all keep a bottle of white liquid shoe polish that we mark the outside tread and up the sidewall an inch or two. After a run you look at how far up the outside tread the white mark was worn off. Then adjust the tire pressure for optimum usage of the tire deflection. If the wear is too high, then the pressure is too low ... simple enough.
If you run a car tire and push it hard, mark the side and adjust the pressure to suit the need. If 25psi won't hold up the weight without the sidewall deflecting too much, then add air till it will.
If you're on the sidewall, then the pressure is too low. That should be easy enough to understand. The force of hard cornering can nearly double the weight on the tire.
 
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