Chasing gremlins

I'll try to be as concise as possible, with the info I have available, and hopefully we can sort out my rocket and maybe help others along the way.

It's a 2013 roadster, 11k miles. Exceptional cleanliness. (This is important, as it indicates someone cared for it )

Bike didn't run when I brought it home. Bad battery. New battery and it started right up, but ran rough. (I've had it a week, only)

I replaced the TPS on a whim, may have wasted some money but I'm ok with that.

When I replaced the TPS, the bike ran perfect. Absolutely flawless. For about 10 minutes. Then it went right back to its normal horrible running and idling

I cannot do the 12 minute ECU reset, as the bike will die within 5 minutes of idling. The idle drops slowly until its below 500rrvs then it cuts out. It does start right back up.

It's running incredibly rich. Blows a fair amount of black smoke when reved, much less when it's idling.

Running condition doesn't seem to change when hot or cold

The bike is throwing no obd codes.
Tonight I unhooked the battery and the ECU, for a solid half hour, and reset the adaptation codes with the obd scanner I have. I head the bike electronics doing "stuff" (stepper motor, fuel pump, etc) so I'm assuming those things are all at least functional.

Tomorrow, when it's light out, I'll pull the gas tank and go after some other stuff. Vacuum lines, spark plugs, etc.

I really don't believe it's mechanical issue. I do think it has something to do with the ECU.

I have no basis for this thought, other than sometimes, for brief minutes, it does run really well.

I do not have access to a tuner to use tuneecu.

If there's a way I can use my computer, I can attach that to the obd port, but otherwise I have to order a Bluetooth reader to use the tuneecu software.

I am borrowing one reader tomorrow (hopefully) to be able to at least diagnose the bike. (It's a BAF tuner, which tuneecu will work for diagnosing but can't remap.)

I know,, not concise at all, but I wanted to make sure I had all the details down.

I will absolutely, without a doubt, continue! I up date this, until the bike runs well.

Thanks for the help

Josh

i downloaded tuneecu from here, for pc. plugged in my computer to the bike and it worked (i think?)

tps is mounted within spec (.62v) (i got lucky?)

the other numbers i have to compare the values. Still says "No Codes" which is probably a good thing, but doesnt make it easy for me to diagnose otherwise.

FWIW, i rebuild a ton of old motorcycles. carbs are my friend. no issues tuning a bike by ear, with carbs. I just need to get used to or rather adjust to the electronics. Im hoping i get some assistance from here

thanks again!

hopefully the picture comes through, and someone can help me decipher it.

Good to see the 2.5.5 download on here is still helping people out.
First I'd say to set the primary TPS up correctly, it's not going to work by guessing, has to be done right. The 0.62v on that screen isn't right. It's to be set to 0.60v at one point and 0.72v ar another when on the ISCV Reset screen.

This video should help;


When that's done, can you 'reset adaptives' then run the bike without touching throttle, to do the 12 min tune (not really a tune btw but forces adaptives), where you let it idle until fan comes on then leave it run another 12 mins, all with TuneECU connected and watch the throttle balance screen.
And report back what numbers you see, particularly if the bike starts bogging and dying.

Also - can you see what map is on it?

R-III-R Turbo said:

Good to see the 2.5.5 download on here is still helping people out.
First I'd say to set the primary TPS up correctly. The 0.62v on that screen isn't right. It's to be set to 0.60v at one point and 0.72v ar another when on the ISCV Reset screen.

This video should help;

When that's done, can you 'reset adaptives' then run the bike without touching throttle, to do the 12 min tune (not s tune but forces adaptives), all with TuneECU connected and watch the throttle balance screen.
And report back what numbers you see, particularly if the bike starts bogging and dying.

Also - can you see what map is on it?

Click to expand...

Im going out to the garage shortly to give this another go.

Im not entirely sure how to use the tuneecu, I'm assuming the bike needs to be running for it to be functional? It runs but I need to be on the throttle constantly to keep it going, which makes balancing the computer a struggle.

I think I saw a version 2.5.8? Is that a better version? Or will the 2.5.5 be sufficient?

Im just trying to diagnose, not tune the bike.

I also tried to check for a map, but didn't see it

I can't verify that the cable i have is correct. It came with the bike, but I'm assuming it's fine?

Thanks for the help. I'll have results shortly

Ignition needs to be on for TuneECU to work. But engine not necessarily running.
Can only map it when ignition on but engine not running. Can only see certain things like throttle balance, MAP value, injector pulse time etc when running.

Always hook up a battery charger when using ignition on only in order to keep constant voltage and avoid problems with TuneECU and flat battery.

If it runs only with throttle opened a bit then it's either TPS or vacuum reading issue or both, most likely.

Version 2.5.8 is the latest/last Windows version but no different other than some people find 2.5.5 connects better etc.

Post a pic of the cable. If you got connected then there's a chance it's ok but I do know you can get cables that connect but still give issues. Only trust www.lonelec.com for a Triumph cable for TuneECU.

I know you're not looking to tune it but you need to see the map to rule out previous owner putting a crap map on it and causing the poor running.

R-III-R Turbo said:

Ignition needs to be on for TuneECU to work. But engine not necessarily running.
Can only map it when ignition on but engine not running. Can only see certain things like throttle balance, MAP value, injector pulse time etc when running.

Always hook up a battery charger when using ignition on only in order to keep constant voltage and avoid problems with TuneECU and flat battery.

If it runs only with throttle opened a bit then it's either TPS or vacuum reading issue or both, most likely.

Version 2.5.8 is the latest/last Windows version but no different other than some people find 2.5.5 connects better etc.

Post a pic of the cable. If you got connected then there's a chance it's ok but I do know you can get cables that connect but still give issues. Only trust www.lonelec.com for a Triumph cable for TuneECU.

I know you're not looking to tune it but you need to see the map to rule out previous owner putting a crap map on it and causing the poor running.

Click to expand...

Im very much concerned about a bad map. The guy I got it from wanted to put a supercharger on it. It never happened, but who knows what the mechanic he has hired did, in prepping the bike.

The cable just looks like a generic, OBD2 plug with a USB end on it. There's not a name or numbers or anything else on it

The aforementioned cable

Just a thought. Which TPS did you replace? The one at the rear of the throttle bodies (primary) is the one for idle.

loudjosh said:

The aforementioned cable

Click to expand...

It dont look like a Lonelec.com one but there is a possibility it has the right chipset etc and work ok.
Keep going for now anyway

R-III-R Turbo said:

It dont look like a Lonelec.com one but there is a possibility it has the right chipset etc and work ok.
Keep going for now anyway

Click to expand...

I have a friend I can borrow a Bluetooth reader from. It's on the list from tuneecu for reading and diagnostics, but can't change a map (BAF?)