Keyless Ignition Mod HOW TO WITH PICS

  • For my mot park light should work and I'm happy with how it all works, DEcosse a Question, if I shorten the aerial wire will it shorten the active range I ask cos my children may press on and at the moment it will turn my bike on in the garage and run the battery down without me knowing.:)
 
  • For my mot park light should work
It's not a question of the light itself not working - it's whether you need it to operate with the park position of the OEM key-switch.
So yes if leaving the keyswitch in place and wanting the ability to use that position then sure
Is it actually an mot requirement that you have that capability? Or even a key-switch at all?

As to antenna on your particular device I wouldn't really know - you can only try
Adding an interlock like clutch or sidestand switch eliminates that problem completely - but equally means you have to operate (whichever you choose) prior to enabling remote
 
Last edited:
Hi
sorry to jump in like this, I have a R3R and would like to fit a keyless system.
I've bought an RFID from
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/rfid-ignition-lock-m-lock/m-lock/m-lock-rfid-zundschloss.html
but have a few queries if someone would be good enough to help.
The first is which wiring diagram would be best to go by as I've now seen so many I'm more confused than Ozzy Osbourne. The m-Lock is a latching switch requiring the fob for both on and off functions. Although it would be nice to have an alternative off switch.
I 've got 3 x relays with diodes integrated but in some of the suggestions 2 extra diodes are needed. What rating should these be? And finally (I think) can all this be connected by the fuse box or will it be neccessary to connect under the tank? - I'm thinking of the heat
Thanks
By the way, I was thinking of keeping the stock ign switch as a failsafe.
 
Just completed a Hands-free Key-Less Ignition for the Rocket for one of our illustrious members

This is how it works - this video is actually my older generation system but functionally operates same way - clutch to set ignition on and kill to shut it down
The only difference operationally is there is no flashing LED when armed, and the 'ready' light actually utilizes the built-in OEM alarm LED in the Rocket's Instruments.


It's pretty much Plug n Play. Ignition Switch can be left installed, or can be completely removed.

Approach the bike (remote can be in pocket - no need to press button) and system disarms; (Visual indication of disarming is the Turn Signals Flash)
Set Kill Switch to Run, Pull Clutch Lever - Ignition turns on.
Start bike.
When ready to shut down, set Kill Switch to 'Stop' (turns off all the circuits, just like turning key - not just Ignition cct as is currently)
Walk away from bike - system automatically re-arms (again, visual from the Turns flashing)

All this can be done without removing the remote from your pocket - range is about 6m or 20' - just get on the bike, pull the clutch and start & go!

This is the finished kit - ready to plug n play:



This is my custom control board:



And integrated into Base Module - super compact fits inside the original controller!



I just did a redesign on the control board - the first most significant change is that it is now built using miniature Surface Mount Technology makes for a very low profile and 'less-busy' layout than my previous through-hole circuit board.
The next bonus is that I am now utilizing a MOSFET Transistor that is specifically designed for the Automotive application and has built-in short circuit protection. Super nice device! There are 4 of these drivers (the bigger devices on the boards) which drive the Turns (one for each side), the Output drive to the Power Relays and an optional 'Ready' device driver (only powered when system is disarmed but not necessarily ignition turned on)
That latter device on mine actually enables a Solenoid to pull the cable for my seat release, so it too is now Keyless!
The remotes with this controller are MUCH nicer - a lot less fussy than the older generation Controller. This new one only turns on when it is within range of the controller and once ignition is set, it turns off until the ignition is shut down, when it restarts - and again shuts down when goes out of range. This saves the remote battery power.
There is important safety consideration in that it does not require the remote to be operational once the ignition has been turned on (indeed as per above, the remote actually shuts off!) - the latch circuit keeps the ignition on until the Kill Switch is used to shut it down.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top