(update on the rebuild and issues shifting) Under full load slips out of 2nd gear and issues downshifting into 1st

[Mongler07]

Under full high rpm load WOT it will pop out of 2nd gear some times but it will not do this if i fully pull back on the shifter when i put it into 2nd. seems like its not fully seated? IDK
Also she will NOT go into 1st unless i rev it up when downshifting. or am already at low speeds, otherwise shifts like butter. Usually ill get stuck in neutral trying to go down into 1st. But im used to street bikes and slamming gears so maybe im just not being nice to her. What do you all think? Is this a common issue on the 1st gens? i know they are prone to transmission issues and what not. she has 12k and fresh fluids.

Also i just moved to Colorado and am enjoying the canyons
I know the last time i uploaded was when i first got her and was rebuilding her.
Here is the link New 07 classic owner (fixer-upper)

 

[Kevin frazier]

Can we see the clutch adjustment

 

[Mongler07]

Can we see the clutch adjustment

Yea will do. I had to eyeball it when i did the clutch cover and replacing the clutch part of the controls. i have a bit of movement before it engages on the lever and the dots are lined up on the arm on the clutch cover It only ever pops out under 100% full send and usually right at the top of the RPMs were the power curve is maxed. Boy is it a jolt when it pops out like that. i can downshift flawlessly from all gears other than going into 1st at anything higher than 3,000 rpms... ish.
Oh and it did this before i pulled the clutch cover.

 

[Kevin frazier]

So the plates all passed inspection and fibers, a clutch pack can be ruined in 1 mile, by abuse you may not be aware of, but lets see adjustment first

 

[Mongler07]

So the plates all passed inspection and fibers, a clutch pack can be ruined in 1 mile, by abuse you may not be aware of, but lets see adjustment first

sure. Im not exactly understanding what your getting at? Passed inspection? its the original clutch to the bike, i replaced the cover because it had a crack in it from when it was dropped by the PO. There is no inspection! i mean yea the oil looks clear when i changed it when i got it and its not burnt and holds nicly. ill take a picture of it after work tomorrow
it feels to me that the issue may be somewhere in the shifter. Its a bit sloppy on the bolt. there is no shim or washer, just a bolt holding the shifter on. Is there supposed to be a shim that takes up the slop?

 

[Kevin frazier]

sure. Im not exactly understanding what your getting at? Passed inspection? its the original clutch to the bike, i replaced the cover because it had a crack in it from when it was dropped by the PO. There is no inspection! i mean yea the oil looks clear when i changed it when i got it and its not burnt and holds nicly. ill take a picture of it after work tomorrow
it feels to me that the issue may be somewhere in the shifter. Its a bit sloppy on the bolt. there is no shim or washer, just a bolt holding the shifter on. Is there supposed to be a shim that takes up the slop?

Nope, if that bolt is loose you gotta go in. On the inspection, were plates flat and were fibers measured when you were in there changing that cover, good time to change detent spring.

 

[Kevin frazier]

If that lever is floppy thats probaly the issue,

 

[Mongler07]

If that lever is floppy thats probaly the issue,

the lever is an 7.5/10 for flop (10 being absolutely no play at all and 0 being the bolt came off) the bolt is tight and the sockets on the balls are lightly tight but the end play is a bit to loss and has some tightness to be desired.
i literally replace the cover with no thought to anything other than the wear on the Pin to the clutch as it can get damaged. i mean it never slips or has any other issues.
Ill do a video tomorrow showing all this

 

[Gregger]

the lever is an 7.5/10 for flop (10 being absolutely no play at all and 0 being the bolt came off) the bolt is tight and the sockets on the balls are lightly tight but the end play is a bit to loss and has some tightness to be desired.
i literally replace the cover with no thought to anything other than the wear on the Pin to the clutch as it can get damaged. i mean it never slips or has any other issues.
Ill do a video tomorrow showing all this

Are we talking about bolt #12 that holds the gear change actuator arm #3 to the gear change actuator shaft #8? If that is loose, you need to pull the engine. If that was loose, you would probably have problems shifting in more than 1 gear.

I would suggest you have some worn dogs on 2nd gear. This also requires an engine pull. You could get the dogs undercut like many fellows have done. Here is a thread recently addressing a 2nd gear issue due to worn dogs.

2nd gear issue

I have 2011 roadster. All gears are working fine and Shifting up and down very smooth except when I hit the full throttle at 2nd gear only it's cuting off and on on!!

www.r3owners.net

Also, Kevin is asking about the amount of freeplay you have in the clutch lever. Rockets are temperamental if they don't have around 2 mm there. No freeplay also causes premature wear in the clutch lifter shaft mechanism.

 

[TURBO200R4]

what we have here is a failure to communicate
mine has always been hard to get into neutral most of the time i have had to release the clutch lever a quick small amount so the bike moves forward a bit then it will go to neutral. (this is not a problem) mine has been like this for 50,000 miles
the popping out off second is most likely a second gear lug problem/bent forks not a loose bolt (this is a big problem)
the adjustment that is being talked about is the clutch lever clearance on the left handle bar.2-3mm