Typically rotors aren't 'turned' in the sense of the word, they are Blanchard Ground and very few shops have a Blanchard Grinder. It's a big machine tool. Essentially, it's a large vetical mill but instead of a spindle with a cutter in an arbor, it has a driven flat faced grinding wheel that engages the work piece 'rotor' that is affixed to the table below the grinding head. Thats why on a new rotor there are radial marks. Those marks are the wheel marks from the Blanchard grinding process.
It is possible to swing a rotor or drum in a lathe that has adequate swing capabilities (I can swing full sized drums and rotors through the gap on my big floor lathe) but only to remove small amounts of material, like the wear-in-ridge that forms on used drums that make it difficult to remove the drums from the automobile without backing off the shoes. It's basically impossible to resurface them using conventional methods because the harmonics of the cutter get amplified by the lack of mass and it results in chatter marks.
If you can find a machine shop with a Blanchard grinder, it's a relatively quick job so long as you don't have to remove material to the point of being less than the allowable wear limit.
The discs on the Rocket are basically bullet proof as far as warping and/or degradation wear from pad contact. About the only thing that would riun a disc is a stone under a pad, imbedded and scraping the surface and that don't seem to occur.
The front discs are resurfacable as well but you must remove the spyder from the disc by removing the buttons that allow the disc to float on the spyder and then replace them after resurfacing.
Keep in mind that the front discs must always 'float' on the buttons. Ocassionally, the discs become frozen to the buttons and don't float. That can equate to front end vibration, poor handling and other woes because the caliper (which is affixed to the fork leg) is trying to follow the runout of the disc and is imparting the runout to the fork leg and eventually to the handlebars.
I keep reading about ill handling, handlebar vibration, out of balance wheels and I'm suspecting that a lot of the problems stem from the discs being frozen to the buttons. They must be able to move side to side and radially a couple thousands of an inch.
When the caliper clamps to the disc, it immediately becomes a solid part as the slop is taken up and the disc bears on the buttons.
Washing the bike, road grime and weathering will sieze the rotor to the buttons and if the rotor isn't running true (and most don't), you'll feel that in the handlebars.
The rear caliper floats.
