Hello all ya Rocket pilots out there, I need to pick your brains. I got a 2010 Touring with as you can see 6000+ on the clock, the problem I have is getting her started. She is in neutral gear and when I turn the key on all I get is the oil light and digital clock/counter,no fuel gauge, no neutral light, no engine management light, and no power to ignition switch. All will come on after about 10 mins of cursing, key flicking, and clutch lever dancing. When I eventually get her to fire up the engine will shut down on engaging 1st gear and returns to same situation as when key first turn on. Eventually I can ride all day long without a problem, only to have the same all over again the following day. 'DOZ THE TEAM THINK' HELP!
1K9
No'mo Rocket 4 me
Tighten your battery poles.
I love these Rocket Gremlins Forums
I love these Rocket Gremlins Forums
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
Do you have an alarm on this bike?
From your symptoms (oil light on but not others) the ignition circuit is at least being completed through the key-switch, but the EMS relay is not turning on;
There are several possibilities:
1. Kill/Run Switch - it could be the contacts on the switch or the connector is loose - for the latter make sure it firmly clicked and locked into place.
2. Alarm interlock (if installed, highly likely this is the problem)
3. The EMS relay is bad.
If you can probe voltages along the circuit path, it will direct you to the issue
Pull the fuel pump relay (yes I know I said the EMS relay might be the problem - this is just a convenient test point);
Measure the voltage on the terminal with the Green/Red wire;
If you do indeed get 12V here, the problem is the EMS Relay (again, note the distinction between the different relays here)
If you do NOT get 12V, then problem is EITHER
a) the Kill/Run switch
b) Alarm
Once again, if you have a datatool alarm, even if you believe it is disarmed, this is most likely source of the issue.
If you do not have an alarm, then problem could potentially be the Kill/Run Switch
First, check that the connector from the Right Bar Switch is properly connected, firmly clicked and 'locked'
Next, take a needle and puncture it through the insulation of the green/brown wire on the main harness side of the connector - touch your red probe to the needle and check for 12V there - you should have 12V with the key on and Kill in Run position;
If you do NOT then problem in the switch - if you DO, then that takes you to the alarm connector - either alarm itself or the bypass connector
From your symptoms (oil light on but not others) the ignition circuit is at least being completed through the key-switch, but the EMS relay is not turning on;
There are several possibilities:
1. Kill/Run Switch - it could be the contacts on the switch or the connector is loose - for the latter make sure it firmly clicked and locked into place.
2. Alarm interlock (if installed, highly likely this is the problem)
3. The EMS relay is bad.
If you can probe voltages along the circuit path, it will direct you to the issue
Pull the fuel pump relay (yes I know I said the EMS relay might be the problem - this is just a convenient test point);
Measure the voltage on the terminal with the Green/Red wire;
If you do indeed get 12V here, the problem is the EMS Relay (again, note the distinction between the different relays here)
If you do NOT get 12V, then problem is EITHER
a) the Kill/Run switch
b) Alarm
Once again, if you have a datatool alarm, even if you believe it is disarmed, this is most likely source of the issue.
If you do not have an alarm, then problem could potentially be the Kill/Run Switch
First, check that the connector from the Right Bar Switch is properly connected, firmly clicked and 'locked'
Next, take a needle and puncture it through the insulation of the green/brown wire on the main harness side of the connector - touch your red probe to the needle and check for 12V there - you should have 12V with the key on and Kill in Run position;
If you do NOT then problem in the switch - if you DO, then that takes you to the alarm connector - either alarm itself or the bypass connector
1K9
No'mo Rocket 4 me
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Nothing like a good read 
DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
To explain a little further ..............
The Ignition circuit on the Touring is a bit 'odd' relative to the other models:
The ignition power out of the key-switch goes directly into the instrument panel without going through the Kill/Run switch - that is why the oil light is on;
But then it goes via the Kill/Run switch (and then the alarm interlock) before it goes to the ECU;
The ECU is NOT turning on, which is why you get no other gauge functions (incl the neutral light which is a CANBUS function on the Touring)
Hence my diagnostic analysis above
The Ignition circuit on the Touring is a bit 'odd' relative to the other models:
The ignition power out of the key-switch goes directly into the instrument panel without going through the Kill/Run switch - that is why the oil light is on;
But then it goes via the Kill/Run switch (and then the alarm interlock) before it goes to the ECU;
The ECU is NOT turning on, which is why you get no other gauge functions (incl the neutral light which is a CANBUS function on the Touring)
Hence my diagnostic analysis above
Wow' seems like I got a bit of probing to do. Yeah I have had problems with Datatool on two other rides in the past where they shut me down. This R3T has the (Meta M357T) fitted as this model worked well on my BMW for 4 years and never let me down. 'Fingers crossed aye' Thanx for your time.Wooohh I got a headache reading all that. It's hard getting old
jake shaw
Turbocharged
Also look around the side stand switch. If it is cutting out when you put it in gear it thinks the stand is still down.
Thanx for that, its been triked and perhaps part of the problem would be bad connection at side stand switch.
