Throttle "slow" to drop to idle

rusty

Turbocharged
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
735
Location
Northwest, MO.
Ride
2005 Rocket III
Hey everyone, lately the Rocket seems to take it's sweet time dropping back to idle (600-700 RPM) when I let off the throttle. The bike has only about 3K+ miles & maybe it has something to do with installing the Rivco Risers, due to the fact I had to disassemble the throttle mechanism & didn't get the cables readjusted just right. I kinda took a little more slack out if the "lower" adjustment (extended the sleeve portion) to see if that would "pull" the throttle closed but it doesn't seen to have made a difference.

Experience with this is what I need to hear about. Any suggestions? Thanks guys (& gals)
 

Toystoretom

Living Legend
Joined
Feb 25, 2006
Messages
2,449
If you have pulled the cables "tight" so to speak by re routing them you need to make sure you have "free play" in the cable at the throttle bodies. The cable does not adjust up by the throttle grip on the handle bars, but rather the only adjustment is down under the chrome bearclaw at the throttle bodies. If you have adequate free play and the cable is hanging up and not allowing the throttle plates to close, I would look at re routing the cables again as they must be kinked or in a bind somewhere.

Rockets have a normal tendency to return slowly to an idle, especially when hot, and this is caused by the fuel injection. There is something in the fuel mapping curve that does this. I have noticed some cars behave the same way and it may be an emmissions thing. It doesn't seem to do it all the time or every time, maybe this is your problem?

I hope this helps...
 

rusty

Turbocharged
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
735
Location
Northwest, MO.
Ride
2005 Rocket III
Normal

Thanks Tomo, I am certain I have no binding of the cables due to rerouting. I didn't notice the Rocket taking so much time returning to idle before but maybe I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill. I'll check my adjustments again, although I do recall that when I did the riser change, there was almost no slack to be gained at the throttle grip as I took it apart.
I'm probably fine, just looking for perfection in a Rocket, but even NASA still finds issues after spending millions more for their toys than I did.
 

travelguy

Turbocharged
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Messages
744
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
jsut did my rivco risers and other than ordering the classic front hose assembly (that extention block is just to m mouse for me) i routed the throttle cables under the plastic steering cover on the right side then through the frame and under the tank. to do mine i removed cables from the t bodies not wanting to screw with the throttle set up. found some initial slow return on reassembly at full lock so i backed off adjusters at the throttle grip and it works great.
 

PianoMan

Nitrous
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
1,247
Location
Overland Park, Kansas USA
Classic Cables

When I had the dealer put on the risers, they had to leave the cables hanging on the right side of the handle bars so they wouldn't bind. Trying to put them back into the wire harness on the inside was just too much tension on the cable. Problem was I didn't like the look of them hanging down when all the other wiring and cables were in a some what organized and clean looking format.

Then, one day, I noticed in the parts catalog there were (2) cables available with different part numbers. Since the Classic comes with the risers already on, I figured they also had longer cables........ and that is the case. About another inch or so of length. Putting on the Classic throttle cables on my old '05 did the trick and everything is back as it was and once again....all is right with the world.
 

bonecarver

Supercharged
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
346
Location
Hilton, New York
Ride
2011 R3T- Jardines / RamAir / PCV/AT
I am having the same trouble that Rusty describes in the first post but I have done nothing to alter the cables etc.
I balanced the throttles, adjusted the TPS settings, and now I am wondering if I might aught to check the clearance between the idle speed control lever and the roller on the throttle cam.

Not sure where to start. but it is taking 10-15 seconds to idle down, any thoughts on what to check other than the gap in the control lever?

Thanks
 

warp9.9

Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
11,204
Location
Forest City Illinois
Ride
07 Rocket
I am having the same trouble that Rusty describes in the first post but I have done nothing to alter the cables etc.
I balanced the throttles, adjusted the TPS settings, and now I am wondering if I might aught to check the clearance between the idle speed control lever and the roller on the throttle cam.

Not sure where to start. but it is taking 10-15 seconds to idle down, any thoughts on what to check other than the gap in the control lever?

Thanks

Did you just adjust the TPS setting or did you do a full ISCV reset? The TPS should only be adjusted when doing a full ISCV reset that way you can confirm the throttle stepper motor fully retracts only then can the throttle plates close to zero position. This is when you set the TPS to .60 volts + or - .02 volts. Most people hook up to the ECU and see .68 or so and think there TPS is of when in fact it is not it is the stepper motor holding the throttle open a wee bit thus changing the TPS position and voltage.
 

bonecarver

Supercharged
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
346
Location
Hilton, New York
Ride
2011 R3T- Jardines / RamAir / PCV/AT
Did you just adjust the TPS setting or did you do a full ISCV reset? The TPS should only be adjusted when doing a full ISCV reset that way you can confirm the throttle stepper motor fully retracts only then can the throttle plates close to zero position. This is when you set the TPS to .60 volts + or - .02 volts. Most people hook up to the ECU and see .68 or so and think there TPS is of when in fact it is not it is the stepper motor holding the throttle open a wee bit thus changing the TPS position and voltage.

I did the full ISCV reset.

I did it at the end of the season last year, and just got the bike out of hibernation today so I will hook back up to the laptop tomorrow night and see what the voltages are. But I worked to get them pretty much spot on last year when I made the changes. I have since read somewhere there that the gap in the control arm might be too far off and to check the gap to make sure it is at .5mm

It makes slowing the bike down with the motor all but impossible.
 

warp9.9

Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Joined
Jun 10, 2007
Messages
11,204
Location
Forest City Illinois
Ride
07 Rocket
I did the full ISCV reset.

I did it at the end of the season last year, and just got the bike out of hibernation today so I will hook back up to the laptop tomorrow night and see what the voltages are. But I worked to get them pretty much spot on last year when I made the changes. I have since read somewhere there that the gap in the control arm might be too far off and to check the gap to make sure it is at .5mm

It makes slowing the bike down with the motor all but impossible.

If you have the .12 rise when doing the iscv reset you gap should be fineprovided the TPS setting is correct. the shim stuff is for initial setting and for the Triumph shop computer which is not as fancy as tune boy :) If you added any type risers check tomake sure ther is no bind and that the cables are loose when throttle is off. they should not be tight.
 

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