The latest fix for the poor idle / stalling

Sightglass

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Sep 17, 2007
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Hey folks, I figured I would start from scratch on this subject. Admins, feel free to merge it with one of the other threads on the subject if you feel it's not a stand alone thread.

So, I'm sure some here didn't see my note that Triumph has just come out with a completely new SB on the idle /stalling situation in another thread. This SB is wide sweeping, covering every vin up to # 328979. If your bike has a higher vin, you shouldn't be effected.

Procedure: Once again, they are starting with the newest set of fuel maps, and a quick reset of adaptations. While the map is being downloaded, once again, the throttle cable free play is checked. For those who don't understand adaptations, it's the ECU looking at all the inputs from the bike, and making adjustments as you ride. Resetting, puts the ESU back to "default, or base" settings.

From there, the engine is warmed up till it reaches one heat cycle (fan comes on), and throttle sync is then checked. If the throttle bodies are in proper sync, you go to the next step. If they are out of sync, the throttle bodies are syncronized. Checking and adjusting of the throttle bodies is a new step in the procedure. Note: the ECU will compensate for a difference of about 22.4%, so, they may not be dead on, and still be OK.

Once it's determined that the throttle bodies are in sync, the engine is shut down, and the ISC voltage is checked with the stepper at fully colsed. While the stepper is at fully closed, play in the throttle cables is chacked at the throttle bodies. After the throttle is snapped open and closed to get a consistant voltage reading (0.58 to 0.62), the voltage is checked at full open. The voltage now needs to be 0.12 higher then the reading fully closed. If it's not, the stepper motor is adjusted acordingly.

At this point, the throttle cable free play is checked and adjusted if need be. Then the adaptations are reset again, and it's done.

I preformed this on two bikes yesterday. The first a classic with cat box removed, and TOR pipes. It had a butter smooth idle, reading 1000 on the bikes tach. The second was also a classic, but box stock. It also had a smooth idle, but it was down at around 850 / 875, where the bikes were originally intended to be set. As always, the bikes tach isn't perfectly accurate. Both bikes ran perfect on the road. Lets hope and pray this is it for the idle / stalling problems with this bike.

Note: for those who have tune boy and are thinking about trying to straighten out the bike themselves, the triumph tool is needed to drive the stepper motor, so it wouldn't be possible to do it. Also, I took note of my readings while checking the sync. One bike was reading around 476 mm/hg, and the other bike around 501 which is surely due to the change in exhaust. So doing your math, these numbers will give you a general area to be in if using the tune boy to do a sync on the throttle bodies.

Don't know how dealers are scheduling for these jobs, but I doubt it's something they will want you to wait on, being if the throttle bodies need to be synced, it takes bit more time.

Cheers
 
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XhdR3rider

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Jun 14, 2007
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Sightglass,

Was it 476mm/hg on all cylinders or were they different?

Cyl #3 is 15-20 mm/hg less than #1 and #2.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
 

Sightglass

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Sightglass,

Was it 476mm/hg on all cylinders or were they different?

Cyl #3 is 15-20 mm/hg less than #1 and #2.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

No, they were different. You'll never get them perfect, because there's too many other factors involved. I'm sure you could get them a bit closer, but remember, the ECU will compensate for up to 22.4%. If I hooked up the Triumph tool, I'd guess it would flash me the balanced signal.
 

Pig9r

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Note: for those who have tune boy and are thinking about trying to straighten out the bike themselves, the triumph tool is needed to drive the stepper motor, so it wouldn't be possible to do it.

I am guessing you are referring to setting the TPS voltage to .6 correct? Tuneboy has a reset ISCV feature which goes through the same steps you described including the .12 higher voltage step. By loosening the torx fastner on the tps sensor you can rotate it to adjust the voltage to .6. I did a thread on the process after I first did it..http://www.r3owners.net/showthread.php?t=2142&highlight=reset+ISCV
 

doubledown11

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Sightglass, two or three of the guys on the .com site have reported that after this fix they are actually running worse. One stated he called Triumph and was told there was a software glitch with the SB (just reporting what was written by another). Are you experiencing any of the same from Rockets that you have performed the SB on. Mine is in the shop right now and I don't want my problem to come back worse than before.
 

Sightglass

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Sorry to take so long to get back to ya. I wanted to wait till I did a few more bikes. I haven't had a single problem yet on any bikes I've done that didn't need the TBI's synced up. Six at this point. The one problem I had was on our demo bike, the only one that needed to be synced. After I did the sync, and the rest of the work, when starting cold, the bike would idle up at around 1800 till warm. Wound up that there was just enough of a crack in a vaccum line to leak just a bit, and caused the bike to adapt incorrectly. Fixed the line, and all is good.

General note. IN my first post of the thread, I said one bike idled at 1k, and the other a bit lower. The bike at 1K was our demo, and that was looking at the tach on the bike. Since I fixed the vaccum leak, it's idle is 850 + or - 50 using my Triumph tool. That's where all bikes are set to idle at for some time now, up from the original 720 when the bikes first hit the market.

Cheers
 

Sightglass

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Has anybody gotten their letter from Triumph about the SB yet ? I figure they should be hitting some folks mailboxes as of now.
 
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