tach problem

knbaudio

.040 Over
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
68
Location
florida
hey guy i called the dealers 2 day and got a couple different answers. it started yesterday and got worse today. the bike is a 2008 classic with 9k miles on it all stock with just comfort and storage accessories. the bike runs fine but the tach is off to the point it reads redline when it is off or at idle. it has gone back to normal 2 times when i shut off and back on 4 or 5 times, but then it works it way back up. does anyone have a fix for this problem. i got one dealer saying it will be a new gauge at $550 and one saying it would be a reset on the computer at 2 plus hrs. the last dealer i'm used to going to when it was under warrenty and getting my service work from is closed for the next couple day, so i have to wait to see what there answer is. but looking to see if anyone else has had this issue and what the fix was as it runs great with no major issues knock on wood.
 
I don't have a answer for you but the dealer that told you 2 hours to reset the ECU is full of ****. You need to get Tune ECU which is free or spend the money and get TuneBoy, they both do basically the same thing and you can trouble shoot problems like this.
 
really i didn't know that i've just come off my warrenty from when i bought it in 2009 and haven't had any issues with yet untill now. i've read different issues with the tach but no real answer on the topic. when i came home today with it i just stopped by the car wash to clean it. whille driving down the road i turn the bike off and each time i did the tach dropped until the 3rd time just as i was coming to a stop sign it rest to 0 and booted up just fine. it ran the rest of the way home with no issues so not sure other than the dealer like to screw you. but any info tip or anything at all as i'm off warrenty and the work is on me and have no issue working on it.
 
I had a similar problem early last year - http://www.r3owners.net/general-tech-talk/7915-tacho-stuck.html?highlight=tacho+stuck

It pretty much fixed itself on that occassion but did happen again a few months ago. Whatever warning lights were on at the time would stay on, so sometimes it was the full set, other times it would be the indicator or nuetral light. Everything else worked fine. I had to disconnect the battery to get the lights to go out but the tacho would either stick high or slowly move up as I rode. Then suddenly while riding all the lights would come on, needle would sweep and back to normal for a while. After waiting a day or 3 for it to fix itself, which it didn't, I tracked down the connector block leading to the ignition switch and pulled it apart. While there was no sign of arcing or soot I gave it as good a clean as I could and pushed it together again. Problem fixed and not happened again.
 
I had a similar problem early last year - http://www.r3owners.net/general-tech-talk/7915-tacho-stuck.html?highlight=tacho+stuck

It pretty much fixed itself on that occassion but did happen again a few months ago. Whatever warning lights were on at the time would stay on, so sometimes it was the full set, other times it would be the indicator or nuetral light. Everything else worked fine. I had to disconnect the battery to get the lights to go out but the tacho would either stick high or slowly move up as I rode. Then suddenly while riding all the lights would come on, needle would sweep and back to normal for a while. After waiting a day or 3 for it to fix itself, which it didn't, I tracked down the connector block leading to the ignition switch and pulled it apart. While there was no sign of arcing or soot I gave it as good a clean as I could and pushed it together again. Problem fixed and not happened again.
As Richard (Can'R3) said check your connecters but also make sure threre is dielectric grease in them and there is also another place to check if you remove the Tacho Chrome cover you will see there is a plug there, so check it. Mine came lose after the dealer had to remove the gauges while replaceing my forks under warranty (corrosion under clear coat of fork lowers and triple clamps) it was just not quite pushed home
 
well i went threw the bike and checked everything cleaned up contacts and put strikehold on everything and dyoelectrical grease. didn't help it still messing up once in awhile. i called the dealer south of me and he had the best news that they have a down load from the factory for that compared to the north dealers wanting to spend hrs reprograming the computer or the other one wanting to put a new gauge with out even looking at it.
 
Let us know how that goes. Mine hasn't played up for ages but it would be good know in case it starts doing it again.
 
just a thought before you go to dealer check under left triangle infill cover there is a square plug coming up from the Crank Angle Sensor I accidentally got water from overzealous washing it made the tach go haywire and was causing the rev limiter to come on as early as 3,000rpm
 
Just a thought check the gauge cluster multi plug to main harness under the Tank spray it with CRC Electrical cleaner and re dieletic grease there may be a lttle pin corrosion from the weather... also check all the plugs while your under there... its a bit of a task but maybe worth giving them the same treatment for peace of mind..

Hope this helps.
 
just a thought before you go to dealer check under left triangle infill cover there is a square plug coming up from the Crank Angle Sensor I accidentally got water from overzealous washing it made the tach go haywire and was causing the rev limiter to come on as early as 3,000rpm
Over zealous washing -please no erotic talking:D
 
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