Speedometer quit, now repaired (with help from friends)

Boog

Traveling Story Teller
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
8,485
Location
Dumfries, Virginia
Ride
2014 R3T, RAMAIR, Full Viking Dual exhaust
About 45.6 miles to be exact into a rainy ride, the speedometer quit. 8 to 10 minutes later I noticed the check engine light on. When I stopped, I checked all fused are goid and no signs of water intrusion under the seat.
I was hitting 2 to 3 inch deep water at speed. Waves of splash came over the windscreen to soak me.
The bike runs great though at least for the remainder of the ride. I'm at work now and will be flying for a few hours so I'm hoping the Triumph gnomes will magic it back to working conditions. Anything else I can check?
 
Okay guys, here is the update, thanks for all the advice on Facebook.
I took Brahma to @Joesmoe's house and we started by hooking up the OBD II connection and found trouble code P0500 (Speed signal) and P1690 (CAN bus).
We swapped the gauge cluster with Paul's and it showed the same issue so we eliminated the gauge cluster as the problem.
We hooked the ohmmeter up and finally found the speed sensor under the engine to have no signal. When I removed the holder, I found two of three wires broken. We though that was the cause but after soldering them back, I still have no speedometer or fuel gauge signal and the self canceling turn signal is inop.
20190602_124738.jpg
20190602_125807.jpg
20190602_130210.jpg
20190602_130651.jpg
20190602_135304.jpg
20190602_141352.jpg
 
Last edited:
I steered @Joesmoe towards the speed sender to begin with, via text message inquiry earlier this morning.
(all of those non-functions are associated with the speed and the CANBUS error was while turning on key-switch with the instruments disconnected)
The water is a red-herring and not relevant to the issue, which clearly as discovered is the broken sensor harness.
Also answered, before even seeing these pics just now, that the liquid tape was probably not cured before heat shrinking over the cluster of all three wires and the exposed soldered joints have undoubtedly shorted together. I'm sure if you do another ECU error check you will probably still have the sender error.
I would re-repair and use heatshrink over each joint individually - it's also a good idea to stagger the joints so they do not line up directly next to each other.
 
Last edited:
I steered @Joesmoe towards the speed sender to begin with, via text message inquiry earlier this morning.
(all of those non-functions are associated with the speed and the CANBUS error was while turning on key-switch with the instruments disconnected)
The water is a red-herring and not relevant to the issue, which clearly as discovered is the broken sensor harness.
Also answered, before even seeing these pics just now, that the liquid tape was probably not cured before heat shrinking over the cluster of all three wires and the exposed soldered joints have undoubtedly shorted together. I'm sure if you do another ECU error check you will probably still have the sender error.
I would re-repair and use heatshrink over each joint individually - it's also a good idea to stagger the joints so they do not line up directly next to each other.
Thank you Ken for that input. It is raining now so I will give it a go tomorrow.
 
Dang boog you might have to get a cage for the bad weather. I haven't see as much corrosion under a rocket. and I was on my back under mine today !!!!! man that getting back up sucks :)
 
Back
Top