Sissy bar for $57US

bigSal

Standard Bore
Joined
Aug 5, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Topeka, Ks United States
Ride
2006 Triumph Rocket 3 classic Special Edition
In my intro I mentioned that I had slightly nodded a Honda shadow sissy bar to work. Some one mentioned that I should post pics because the sissy bar isn't made anymore. I did it because I wasn't going to buy a $500sissy bar. I Drilled 2 holes, one in each bracket and mounted it on the stock holes for a sissy bar using a couple chrome 1" in spacers from home depot.
It is all solid metal no metal piping that I can tell. Here is the link to it...

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071XNQKNR?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

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For those that need more details and instructions....

One pic I'm pointing at the bolt going through hole I drilled in the chrome bracket. Another pic shows how the bracket sits on top of the pannier mount not in front.

Some pointers in how I spotted the drilling point. I put masking tape on the metal in the general area of the location, then I mounted it with the one hole that is usable. I positioned the bracket and used a pen through the back side of the fender to mark the hole location onto the tape. Removed the bracket. I then centered an awl in the drawn hole and dimpled a pilot divot to keep my drill bit from walking. Peeled the tape. Clamped the bracket to a table. Then Using a dewalt corded hand drill and a hard metal 3/8" drill bit, I Positioned my bit on the pilot divot and going slow, I drilled a perfect hole. The metal remaining below the hole and the edge of the bracket is narrow, about 1/4" to 1/8".
To do the other bracket I put tape on the out side and mirrored the hole using the first bracket.
 
For those that need more details and instructions....

One pic I'm pointing at the bolt going through hole I drilled in the chrome bracket. Another pic shows how the bracket sits on top of the pannier mount not in front.

Some pointers in how I spotted the drilling point. I put masking tape on the metal in the general area of the location, then I mounted it with the one hole that is usable. I positioned the bracket and used a pen through the back side of the fender to mark the hole location onto the tape. Removed the bracket. I then centered an awl in the drawn hole and dimpled a pilot divot to keep my drill bit from walking. Peeled the tape. Clamped the bracket to a table. Then Using a dewalt corded hand drill and a hard metal 3/8" drill bit, I Positioned my bit on the pilot divot and going slow, I drilled a perfect hole. The metal remaining below the hole and the edge of the bracket is narrow, about 1/4" to 1/8".
To do the other bracket I put tape on the out side and mirrored the hole using the first bracket.

Other points that will save you trips to the hardware store.

The bolts that come with the set to hold the sissy bar and luggage rack to the mounting brackets are not long enough for both but they work well for the luggage rack alone if your mounting a top box as your back rest. If you want the back rest you need to buy 4 longer bolts. About 3/4"-1" longer. Because the brackets were designed to rest between, A 1/8"-1/4" spacer between the luggage rack and back rest will eliminate some of the flex inward too but its very minor and those brackets are about $4 for 2 and you need 4 of them.
 
Thanks for posting. I predict sales for those racks are going sky Rocket! Once again welcome to the group.
 
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