Single post rear wheel lift/support

[Bedifferent]

I notice when I used my new lift (posted weeks ago) to pickup my touring, that the rear wheel didn't come off the ground. It was a near perfect balancing act with rear end being a little on the heavy side probably because of all the crap I have in the panniers. With those remove I suspect there will be no issues....but just in case, I made this little single post adjustable stand. There is a flat surface located up high under the bike between the swing arms on the touring (I can't speak for the roadster). A little upward pressure on this surface would easily lift and stabilize the rear of the bike should it not balance out properly when lifting. This single post lift in combination with the jack and the front stabilizer I made should do the trick. The single post lift will adjust between 12" to over 22" high. The top spins freely on a flat washer surface allowing the bottom square tubing to turn on the bolt. Please note, I have yet to fasten a small 1/2" piece of wood to the top piece. You get the idea. The adjustability comes from a long bolt welded to the bottom foot and the telescoping inner perforated square tube inside of the other tube. I just thought I would show this little project in case anyone can find it useful for this or something else.

 

[cr0ft]

Hmm, if you're lifting under the proper lifting lugs/holes in the frame on some kind of adapter the rear should come up just fine.

Hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the jack is too far forward. But I may be imagining things.

Gotta say my lift adapter plate and bike lift combo was worth the rather high cost. Bike is rock solid and rises identically front/back, and no worries about fumbling it with some DIY lifting bracket slipping off or some such. I'm not that brave.

Though come to think of it, the Kern-Stabi plate I have is slightly tilted, ie the lifting holes in the back are not right up against the plate but some centimeters away. Also, the rear stopper (that makes sure the bike can't slide forward and off the lift) is not right under the holes, it's a little ways behind the holes so the lift itself is under the holes, not in front of them, not sure exactly how your adapter is done. But if the rear isn't coming up, it may be mounted too far forward.

 

[Bedifferent]

Hmm, if you're lifting under the proper lifting lugs/holes in the frame on some kind of adapter the rear should come up just fine.

Hard to tell from the picture but it looks like the jack is too far forward. But I may be imagining things.

Gotta say my lift adapter plate and bike lift combo was worth the rather high cost. Bike is rock solid and rises identically front/back, and no worries about fumbling it with some DIY lifting bracket slipping off or some such. I'm not that brave.

Though come to think of it, the Kern-Stabi plate I have is slightly tilted, ie the lifting holes in the back are not right up against the plate but some centimeters away. Also, the rear stopper (that makes sure the bike can't slide forward and off the lift) is not right under the holes, it's a little ways behind the holes so the lift itself is under the holes, not in front of them, not sure exactly how your adapter is done. But if the rear isn't coming up, it may be mounted too far forward.

The lift plate I made fastens to the center stand holes and the under the engine. Mine also has adjustable arms that put the lift pressure under on the engine on the floorboard rails. No pressure on the bottom surface of the engine at all. I believe it will lift the whole bike properly with the panniers removed. Now that the weather is warmer I will have a chance to give it a try as it was mid winter when I did the front tire and didn't feel like removing the bags to test everything. The bags have to be removed anyway to work on the rear tire and brakes so that's not an issue. All my supports just make me feel better, as I could literally take a running start and jump on the bike with it up on the floor jack. It's that solid.