Rocket 3, 2020 and later, Tank Removal

MonkeyMan

Standard Bore
Joined
Jan 23, 2021
Messages
8
Location
Prosperity SC
Ride
2020 Rocket 3 TFC
When I do certain jobs, I never know when I'm coming back to them, and I easily can make mistakes. Especially if the job is new to me. I was scared to pull the tank off of my new Rocket, so i set out like I usually do, with my numbered baggies and went at it. I made a list of my steps, and my small parts coming off got put in numbered baggies. Attached is a list of my steps, copied from my Word document.

2020 and Later Rocket 3 Tank Removal



siphon gas out of tank (siphon is in bottom drawer of tool cabinet)



Fuel pump fuse, 7.5 amps, pulled out. Bag five. Pushed starter button until bike stalled to get fuel pressure out of fuel rail.

battery removal b.1

Clear small windscreen removed b.2

R black plastic mount for screen, thin tapered end goes down- b3

L Black plastic mount for screen removed, and flyscreen take off. bag Number four

Stock harness cover, just in front of handle bar clamp removed. It is located between handle bar and front screen. The screws are accessed through access holes visible at upper portion of wires and stuff after flyscreen is removed. The screws are #3 hex head.

GPS taken off (not applicable)

Removal of ram mount at handlebar, Bag seven (not applicable)

Loosened instrument clamp, then tilted the instrument cluster upward and towards the front of the bike, away from the tank, allowing room to lift the tank when the time came. (Torque is 6.6 lb-ft)

Removal of Allen bolt at front of tank, Bag eight

Little black cap over the screw at the rear of the tank (nipple cap), removed. bag nine

Bolt and round cross piece that goes to the strap at the rear of the tank removed, Bag 10

Long linear aluminum strap removed, placed on workbench

Long pin bolt, goes through rear tank pivot, 8 mm, the head of the bolt is on the left. Also pulled out the metal sleeve, pulling it out from the left side, the sleeve is what the bolt sits in. Bag 11

Undid rubber hose on right side of under tank, by raising the front of the tank upward. This hose connects to the charcoal canister

Had to remove screw from the stupid on off switch located at front aspect of L side cover, so I could get to the fuel rail connector plug on the left side of tank . bag 12

Pushed the lock clip back on the quick connect fuel line, left side of tank, and used fuel line disconnect pliars to squeeze each side of the connector, allowing it to come off.

Electrical plug undone under tank: the tank portion of the line gets removed by going forward with the male piece; there is a single tang on top of the plug that gets lifted up, allowing me to pull the male portion towards front of bike.

Tank Lifted off
 
When I do certain jobs, I never know when I'm coming back to them, and I easily can make mistakes. Especially if the job is new to me. I was scared to pull the tank off of my new Rocket, so i set out like I usually do, with my numbered baggies and went at it. I made a list of my steps, and my small parts coming off got put in numbered baggies. Attached is a list of my steps, copied from my Word document.

2020 and Later Rocket 3 Tank Removal



siphon gas out of tank (siphon is in bottom drawer of tool cabinet)



Fuel pump fuse, 7.5 amps, pulled out. Bag five. Pushed starter button until bike stalled to get fuel pressure out of fuel rail.

battery removal b.1

Clear small windscreen removed b.2

R black plastic mount for screen, thin tapered end goes down- b3

L Black plastic mount for screen removed, and flyscreen take off. bag Number four

Stock harness cover, just in front of handle bar clamp removed. It is located between handle bar and front screen. The screws are accessed through access holes visible at upper portion of wires and stuff after flyscreen is removed. The screws are #3 hex head.

GPS taken off (not applicable)

Removal of ram mount at handlebar, Bag seven (not applicable)

Loosened instrument clamp, then tilted the instrument cluster upward and towards the front of the bike, away from the tank, allowing room to lift the tank when the time came. (Torque is 6.6 lb-ft)

Removal of Allen bolt at front of tank, Bag eight

Little black cap over the screw at the rear of the tank (nipple cap), removed. bag nine

Bolt and round cross piece that goes to the strap at the rear of the tank removed, Bag 10

Long linear aluminum strap removed, placed on workbench

Long pin bolt, goes through rear tank pivot, 8 mm, the head of the bolt is on the left. Also pulled out the metal sleeve, pulling it out from the left side, the sleeve is what the bolt sits in. Bag 11

Undid rubber hose on right side of under tank, by raising the front of the tank upward. This hose connects to the charcoal canister

Had to remove screw from the stupid on off switch located at front aspect of L side cover, so I could get to the fuel rail connector plug on the left side of tank . bag 12

Pushed the lock clip back on the quick connect fuel line, left side of tank, and used fuel line disconnect pliars to squeeze each side of the connector, allowing it to come off.

Electrical plug undone under tank: the tank portion of the line gets removed by going forward with the male piece; there is a single tang on top of the plug that gets lifted up, allowing me to pull the male portion towards front of bike.

Tank Lifted off
Nice to know. Why are you removing tank?
 
Great description. I was planning to throw a camera system on the bike (likely Innovv K5), but tank removal sounds like a bit of a pain.

Has anyone had any success running wires back from the front without taking the tank off? Not sure if the channel is fish-able.

Thanks,

B
 
Great description. I was planning to throw a camera system on the bike (likely Innovv K5), but tank removal sounds like a bit of a pain.

Has anyone had any success running wires back from the front without taking the tank off? Not sure if the channel is fish-able.

Thanks,

B
Yes, I've done it. Great write up above, btw. I was installing aux lights and wanted to route the harness carefully by removing the tank. The part of the description above that should be in bold face is to use disconnect pliers, which I did not have. No room with the ignition switch to get a purchase on that connection without 'em. I tried and tried. I will order some special pliers for when I need to change plugs, valve adjustment, etc., but in the meantime I just went to plan "B" and fished it through with a heavy duty zip tie.
 
What I do on my 07 is get a helper
Remove seat remove front bolt
Remove long rear bolt
Lift tank a little and move it back and then the front will clear the bars and gauges and with it up reinstall the long bolt and use tank prop.
If you are doing a lot of work on it like a few i know on the early rockets u can grind the tits off of it so it can stand straight up with the fuel connector disconnected on early rockets
 
This is the 2.
What I do on my 07 is get a helper
Remove seat remove front bolt
Remove long rear bolt
Lift tank a little and move it back and then the front will clear the bars and gauges and with it up reinstall the long bolt and use tank prop.
If you are doing a lot of work on it like a few i know on the early rockets u can grind the tits off of it so it can stand straight up with the fuel connector disconnected on early rockets
This is for the 2.5 models though and it is quite a bit different- not as user friendly. You have to remove the tank, not prop it up, after removing the fuel line connector, which requires a special pinch tool vs. a common wrench. On the '11 Roadster I've always managed fine without a helper, due to lack thereof :cool:
 
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