Riser bolt question?

[Mike Enfinger]

I have a 2015 R3T and bought a set of Krator risers. They did not come with bolts so I checked around and found these bolts for a Kawasaki Vulcan were the closest to what I needed. They were too short and did not extend out enough to bolt on. So, does anyone know where I can get a set of bolts that are long enough? If not, has anyone drilled out the hole in the bushing and used a 1/2 ×13 bolt that was long enough to mount the risers?

 

[Fingers]

I think @BigNorm has done that send him a message.

 

[Jag]

@Claviger has a good specialty hardware guy, if I remember correctly??

 

[Claviger]

I’ll have a look when I get home, thread size and pitch?

 

[Mike Enfinger]

I’ll have a look when I get home, thread size and pitch?

The end that goes into the riser is 1/2x13x3/4. The end that goes thru the bushing is 10mm and has a 1.25 pitch. It need to be 2 1/2 inches long on the 10mm end.

 

[Mike Enfinger]

What about drilling the bushing out to 1/2 and running a 1/2x13 bolt from the bottom?

 

[Claviger]

Ok I think I understand, they’re studs with different threads on each side.

That I’d have to go googling for, I can’t even understand why someone would engineer it that way instead of just tapping the riser 10x1.25 and running a bolt from the start. Bizarre.

My suggestion would be drill it at 1/2, and use a longer bolt sourced from pro-bolt’s selection of Titanium bolts. They’re stronger than Stainless Hardware (but not stronger than good Steve fasteners like grade 8). If you decide to go back the slightly larger hole won’t really make any significant difference as 10mm vs 1/2” is really not that different.

 

[Claviger]

Just thought about the design some more, id drill it bigger and put one of these in

Bunting Bearings Sleeve Bearing, 1/2" I.D., 5/8" O.D., 7/8"L EBCB081007 | Zoro.com

Then buy a compatible 3/8” ID bushing if going back to stock and drill it to 10mm. Will remove any chance of movement with the 10mm hardware. Like this 3/8"X5/8"X1" Inch Bearing Bronze Cast Bushing Plain Sleeve Bearings


Both of Luke have to be cut to length, but that’s not too hard, it’s brass after all.

 

[Mike Enfinger]

Thanks, I was actually thinking I could drill it out then use some kind of sleeve if I ever wanted to go back to original. Now I now where to get the parts!