Rider's position footpegs vs. floors

[Six]

After searching this forum I found out that floors are generally considered as more comfortable than pegs.
But could anyone tell me if there's any difference in rider's position between these two? Are the pegs higher/lower or closer to front/back?
I have floors mounted on my '07 Rocket Standard and they are quite ok, but with my height (190cm - 6'3 ft) it feels like they're too high/too close to seat and it's like sitting on a really low chair. My father finds this setup very comfortable, but I don't.
We have a set of factory, never-used footpegs that have been taken off the bike by a dealership when mounting floors before delivery, so I could try them, but I decided to ask on the forum before I start any work.

Edit: Sorry if I posted this thread in a wrong place, but I'm new on this forum...

 

[barbagris]

There are two different sets of floorboards. The Classic which are lower and another set which are higher and iirc more forward.

 

[Six]

Rocket Classic was introduced in '08 or '09, am I right? My bike was bought brand new in '07 with those accessory floors.

 

[sleeves]

Think this is "rider preference" I prefer pegs and am not fond of foot-boards at all, other people love them, neither party is wrong.

I run pegs, with crash bars and highway pegs so I can move my feet round on long hauls into various positions. I can place the toes of my boots on the highway pegs and the heel on the stock pegs also. As the boot soles are not that flexible it feels like there are boards.

My wife had the option of floorboards or pegs on the pillion and opted for pegs as she preferred the "locked in" feeling they gave her boots especially under heavy braking, had to move pegs forward though.

Hope this helps

 

[Six]

I also thought about this "locked in" feeling and the ability to slightly adjust "tibia to foot" angle as other benefits of pegs. Looks like I have to mount those pegs and find out the difference by myself.

 

[ToledoBendTom]

Please consider opting for the one inch taller shocks, I have progressive, to improve overall seat comfort. Surprisingly, the pull back on the handlebars also helped more than I originally thought. Taller seat height reduces the knee bend angle while a closer handle bar helps with a more upright riding position. Try removing top shock bolts and raising seat up an inch with blocks on rear tire and see if foot position isn’t improved.

There is also a recent post, finally comfortable, where the pegs are llowered about four inches. And, I got you by six inches. Have I really owned this bike for 13 years?

 

[Six]

But how changing shocks may affect rider's position? Distance between the seat and pegs/floors will remain the same, because both parts are fixed to frame. I also considered ordering a custom made, higher seat. More legroom, more seat comfort and overall geometry of the bike stays untouched.

 

[warp9.9]

But how changing shocks may affect rider's position? Distance between the seat and pegs/floors will remain the same, because both parts are fixed to frame. I also considered ordering a custom made, higher seat. More legroom, more seat comfort and overall geometry of the bike stays untouched.

Your right six changing the shocks only change distance between dupa and ground

Post a picture of your beast from the sides so we can see which floor board set you have on her. I have a feeling you have the standard rails with the floorboard kit. And single colored paint job. Classics started 06 like the one below with two tone paint schemes

 

[ToledoBendTom]

Your right six changing the shocks only change distance between dupa and ground

Post a picture of your beast from the sides so we can see which floor board set you have on her. I have a feeling you have the standard rails with the floorboard kit. And single colored paint job. Classics started 06 like the one below with two tone paint schemes

But how changing shocks may affect rider's position? Distance between the seat and pegs/floors will remain the same, because both parts are fixed to frame. I also considered ordering a custom made, higher seat. More legroom, more seat comfort and overall geometry of the bike stays untouched.

Ok, your right about seat being connected to frame. Just consider that the shock length sets the height of the seat on the frame, you can order shock plus and inch, standard stock or less one inch. Adding seat height does and will help your riding position. You can also add a seat pad. The benefit is that your butt is about level with your knee, rather than having your knee higher than your seat. It doesn’t change the peg position, it just eliminates or reduces the strain on your hips caused by the seat being lower than you bent knee. Which is why your complaining about the peg position, your hips and back hurt.

The solution with stock seat height might be forward controls, which to my knowledge don’t commercially
exist. If you don’t have highway pegs, get some to stretch out.

 

[Claviger]

Raising the rear of the bike adjusts how your weighted in the saddle, which effects weight on hands and feed as well.

I like how Roadster pegs feel with the longer shocks as I can lock into my tank using my leg, like on a sportsbike and un-weight the inside peg when I'm concerned it's going to drag so it can flex without bumping my leg up and upsetting my body position mid corner.

Really though, I can get full tire use without dragging anything with the longer shocks, but, I do remember when I had stock length shocks, how unsettling having my inside foot kicked upwards as I bit into the tarmac was when I didn't expect it. Dragging things when you intend to is fun, dragging things when you have no choice but to lean that far to make a corner is not.