Revisiting my SH847 regulator/rectifier mount.

[Bedifferent]

I am revisiting the SH847AA series regulator/rectifier mount that I made. I posted some information elsewhere in the forum, but I have revised some things.

I have fabricated several jigs and fixtures that will allow me to duplicate the mount I made. It will fasten the new R/R securely behind the left infill panel. I fits my 2015 R3T ABS nicely, utilizing a screw located on the air box and the frame for mounting. If your relay bracket, screw and frame match my pictures, it should work if you are interested.

I decided to modify the backing plate I used and not include the ears (as shown in one of the pictures). This helps save time using a my band saw to cut the backing plates. I made up a set of instructions as well to help keep the install simple. FYI...I did not bother to remove the stock R/R as...what is the point. I chose to rather to just cap of the connectors. A big thanks to @DEcosse for putting me on to the right connectors to use.

I am not pushing a product here, but trying to help out with a mount you can use if you can't make your own. I will be just as happy if I don't make any more, but at least I can if needed.

Now for the down side. I will not spend time and money making them for super cheap. When I factor in wear and tear... sanding belts, blades, materials, driving around to get the material, nuts, bolts, and my labor making all the parts, I have come to the conclusion I will not make and ship them for less than $35. $7.20 of which is just for shipping.

If you can't make a good mount for your new $155.00 R/R, this is a ready made solution. Feel free to copy and make your own if you like. This mount is rock solid.

Pictured:

The mount with all the included parts (I have a couple made with the ears on them), my jigs and fixtures for making them, the mounted R/R, the capped stock regulator, the airbox mounting bracket screw and relay bracket on my bike, old and newer mounting plate and the mounted SH847AA.

 

[Jag]

I am revisiting the SH847AA series regulator/rectifier mount that I made. I posted some information elsewhere in the forum, but I have revised some things.

I have fabricated several jigs and fixtures that will allow me to duplicate the mount I made. It will fasten the new R/R securely behind the left infill panel. I fits my 2015 R3T ABS nicely, utilizing a screw located on the air box and the frame for mounting. If your relay bracket, screw and frame match my pictures, it should work if you are interested.

I decided to modify the backing plate I used and not include the ears (as shown in one of the pictures). This helps save time using a my band saw to cut the backing plates. I made up a set of instructions as well to help keep the install simple. FYI...I did not bother to remove the stock R/R as...what is the point. I chose to rather to just cap of the connectors. A big thanks to @DEcosse for putting me on to the right connectors to use.

I am not pushing a product here, but trying to help out with a mount you can use if you can't make your own. I will be just as happy if I don't make any more, but at least I can if needed.

Now for the down side. I will not spend time and money making them for super cheap. When I factor in wear and tear... sanding belts, blades, materials, driving around to get the material, nuts, bolts, and my labor making all the parts, I have come to the conclusion I will not make and ship them for less than $35. $7.20 of which is just for shipping.

If you can't make a good mount for your new $155.00 R/R, this is a ready made solution. Feel free to copy and make your own if you like. This mount is rock solid.

Pictured:

The mount with all the included parts (I have a couple made with the ears on them), my jigs and fixtures for making them, the mounted R/R, the capped stock regulator, the airbox mounting bracket screw and relay bracket on my bike, old and newer mounting plate and the mounted SH847AA.

Why did you need new connectors??

 

[Bedifferent]

Why did you need new connectors??

I actually didn't need new connectors. Since I wanted to leave the original R/R in place I wanted to keep dirt and moisture out of its connections. I temporarily taped over their openings and then ordered new connectors. I plugged the openings in the new connector terminal holes with the yellow plugs as shown. I then put the new connectors on the still mounted stock R/R to keep everything clean and dry just in case. The original connectors with their wires were plugged into the new R/R as shown mounted. Easy hookup. Basically, I bought new connectors with plugs to cover the connections of the original R/R.

 

[Jag]

I actually didn't need new connectors. Since I wanted to leave the original R/R in place I wanted to keep dirt and moisture out of its connections. I temporarily taped over their openings and then ordered new connectors. I plugged the openings in the new connector terminal holes with the yellow plugs as shown. I then put the new connectors on the still mounted stock R/R to keep everything clean and dry just in case. The original connectors with their wires were plugged into the new R/R as shown mounted. Easy hookup. Basically, I bought new connectors with plugs to cover the connections of the original R/R.

I too have a new R/R to install, (thinking about your bracket) along with your deflectors, lowers, Ken keyless system and new handle bar risers. All still boxed up and covered in pollen on my workbench. Bike is also covered in pollen and has not been ridden in over two months. Working 7 days a week 12hours a day has cut into my tinkering and riding! Now they are talking about working 7/16’s for the next 30days!!
Someday I’ll get to ride!!

 

[RockOn]

Nice work. Question: Is the backing plate necessary? If I am concerned about the plate retaining and/or blocking heat from escaping from the backside........ do you think using just the lower frame clamp and the upper bracket piece would suffice to hold the R/R in place?

Thanks,

VR

PS Currently my R/R is installed with double zip ties at the upper and lower holes, much like Paul's install(Joesmoe). Zip tie package says ties hold up to 185 degrees F. Any idea how hot this R/R gets? Seems to me I saw someone list the temps at 140-150 dgrees F.....?

 

[Bedifferent]

Nice work. Question: Is the backing plate necessary? If I am concerned about the plate retaining and/or blocking heat from escaping from the backside........ do you think using just the lower frame clamp and the upper bracket piece would suffice to hold the R/R in place?

Thanks,

VR

PS Currently my R/R is installed with double zip ties at the upper and lower holes, much like Paul's install(Joesmoe). Zip tie package says ties hold up to 185 degrees F. Any idea how hot this R/R gets? Seems to me I saw someone list the temps at 140-150 dgrees F.....?

Yes, It is a must for solid mounting. The back of the R/R is metal and with it laying against the aluminum plate I think heat transfer is even better because of the larger surface created by the plate. I added heat sinks on the back of mine (see picture), but the general consensus was they were not needed as the R/R does not run excessively hot and already have adequate heat sink fins on the front. If you are concerned you could do the same, but it gets more pricey. The picture shows what I did...BTW, Ignore the 3 small holes in the plate as I was still trying to find the best mounting location for the upper bracket on the plate. The ones I offered to make have only 1 hole in the correct spot. Plenty of clearance away from the infill panel.

BTW...I sold one to @Joesmoe and I am waiting for his mounting report. He is pretty busy with his other mods. Looks like he has a full plate.

 

[RockOn]

Yes, It is a must for solid mounting. The back of the R/R is metal and with it laying against the aluminum plate I think heat transfer is even better because of the larger surface created by the plate. I added heat sinks on the back of mine (see picture), but the general consensus was they were not needed as the R/R does not run excessively hot and already have adequate heat sink fins on the front. If you are concerned you could do the same, but it gets more pricey. The picture shows what I did...BTW, Ignore the 3 small holes in the plate as I was still trying to find the best mounting location for the upper bracket on the plate. The ones I offered to make have only 1 hole in the correct spot. Plenty of clearance away from the infill panel.

BTW...I sold one to @Joesmoe and I am waiting for his mounting report. He is pretty busy with his other mods. Looks like he has a full plate.

OK, thanks!

 

[Joesmoe]

Slooowly reassembling my bike after having installed @Neville Lush Racing "street" cams, there were a number of items on my list: @Mittzy 's beautiful overflow tank, chrome oil tank and chrome water pump cover, color-matching (sort-of) red Hepco water hoses, new keyless ignition by @DEcosse , and this gorgeous mount for R/R conceived, designed, and manufactured by @Bedifferent .

And what a creation it is ! The parts just fell into place in all defiance of the Universe's inexorable march toward entropy, and just a wonderful mount when done.

I highly recommend this for those who have, or are considering the Shindigen series rectifier/regulator.

@Bedifferent will make them, for $45 plus shipping; cheap at twice the price.

 

[Boog]

@Joesmoe Paul, none of that looks familiar at all to me, it's so shiny in there...

 

[Jag]

Finally installed the rectifier and @Bedifferent excellent mounting plate!!
20 minute job, 10 to figure out how to remove rectifier connectors from existing rectifier (without breaking them) and 10 to mount the new one with bracket.

Would recommend @Bedifferent mounting plate to anyone doing this upgrade!!