Remove 'damper' from handle bars

[dutch]

Hello, do not know if ' damper' is the right word for the things at both ends of the handlebars.
I want to remove them because of a change of handle bars.

When I remove the bolds and the heavy weight there still a part stuck inside the handlebars.
Anybody knows how do I remove these?

 

[Boog]

They are called Bar end weights and they help to reduce vibrations. The inner pieces I think you refer to are the pieces that help the weights stay attached.

Here is a video on removing them from a Honda.

My questions is why are you doing this?

 

[dutch]

Thanx for the VDO.

Why? I want to change the handlebars for a different one.

 

[barbagris]

The Bar end weights are affixed to the bars with a screw. The threaded stubs in R3 bars are WELDED IN. I assume the same applies to the R3T. Changing bars means you need to have threaded plugs made for the new bars. OR find new weights with different bungs.

 

[Bob R]

The Bar end weights are affixed to the bars with a screw. The threaded stubs in R3 bars are WELDED IN. I assume the same applies to the R3T.

Now that you mention it, yes they are welded in on the R3T. A little judicious work with hand tools and a dremel/drill should take care of it though. When I changed my grips I noticed that.

bob

 

[barbagris]

Now that you mention it, yes they are welded in on the R3T. A little judicious work with hand tools and a dremel/drill should take care of it though.

I personally WOULD not do this. You'll destroy the original bars. Have new bungs made and glue them in the new bars.

 

[sleeves]

I personally WOULD not do this. You'll destroy the original bars. Have new bungs made and glue them in the new bars.

Hi Dutch

I changed the bars on my R3 (std), its was a major undertaking and as Barbagris and Bob have said the other parts are welded in. They are different on each side. The RHS has a slot to accommodate the movement of the wires for heated grips. Would recommend saving your bars "as is".

What I did was drew up the end fittings and Paul Bryant (Viking Exhaust) kindly machined up new adaptors so I could have different bars with the stock (I have heated) grips. These were then fixed in my bars of choice with grub screws and Loctite.

I found that without cutting and soldering wires you can get about a 16" rise (I have 14" bars and 2" Rivco risers) but this would very much depend on bar width too. You have to carefully relocate wiring and you need to change cables brake lines etc.

Before you go too far, if the bars are just not quite in a comfortable position the Rivco Riser are gold, the give 2" rise and 1" pullback and I highly recommend them. Also just realized I am talking R3 NOT the Touring for the Rivcos. Not sure if they fit R3T?

Hope this helps.

 

[Bob R]

Hi Dutch

Before you go too far, if the bars are just not quite in a comfortable position the Rivco Riser are gold, the give 2" rise and 1" pullback and I highly recommend them. Also just realized I am talking R3 NOT the Touring for the Rivcos. Not sure if they fit R3T?

Hope this helps.

Rivco does make risers for both the R3 and the R3T bit they are different. You have get the touring ones specifically for the touring or else you will not clear the instrument cluster.

bob

 

[1olbull]

The Bar end weights are affixed to the bars with a screw. The threaded stubs in R3 bars are WELDED IN. I assume the same applies to the R3T. Changing bars means you need to have threaded plugs made for the new bars. OR find new weights with different bungs.

Or just forget the weights as this poster did with no issues.

 

[dutch]

Thanx for all the replies. I found out, like you said, that they are welded in the handle bars.
The new handlebars I've put on the bike give me a better riding position.