Rear brake rotor

[Darron1117]

Hello Rocketeers,
My Roadster is a 2012 w/ 8050 miles. Was looking at the rear brake rotor and about a quarter inch from the
outside edge of the rotor, I noticed a thin groove. Can't really catch it with my fingernail. My pads have about
half the meat left on them. The groove is small, but I did notice it. Also, when I push my bike around the garage,
I can hear the rear brakes rubbing slightly. Any issues with this? Some say the rubbing is normal. I disconnected the rear
brake rod so no pressure would be on master cylinder and I still hear rubbing when I push the bike. Thanks in
advance. Bike stops fine and these are original pads.

 

[1K9]

Hello Rocketeers,
My Roadster is a 2012 w/ 8050 miles. Was looking at the rear brake rotor and about a quarter inch from the
outside edge of the rotor, I noticed a thin groove. Can't really catch it with my fingernail. My pads have about
half the meat left on them. The groove is small, but I did notice it. Also, when I push my bike around the garage,
I can hear the rear brakes rubbing slightly. Any issues with this? Some say the rubbing is normal. I disconnected the rear
brake rod so no pressure would be on master cylinder and I still hear rubbing when I push the bike. Thanks in
advance. Bike stops fine and these are original pads.

Remove the rear caliper mount. Remove one of the pads. Carefully extrude the pistons to expose some of what is usually under the seals. Get a toothbrush, some Q-tips and a microfiber rag and brake fluid. Clean the pistons like it was a gun. Use a little Brembo grease or the-like to lightly lube the pistons and seat them down all the way. Clean the disc with brake cleaner. Get a new set of pads and install them. Re-assemble everything. Tighten things to specs while the brake is applied. Brake in the pads. You should be well.
Search hot rear brakes. There are several good posts on the subject.

 

[warp9.9]

Ya typical rotor where I agree with k9 about cycling the pistons. The ridge on the rotor I'd would take a dynafile and knock it off. After I measred the rotor thickness for minimum thickness/service limit k9 knows alot about the breaks I've road his one finger is all you need on the brake lever. His is the best thing since sliced bread.

 

[1K9]

Mine back brake has been dragging a little lately. Time for a seasonal take off and clean routine.

 

[Darron1117]

Remove the rear caliper mount. Remove one of the pads. Carefully extrude the pistons to expose some of what is usually under the seals. Get a toothbrush, some Q-tips and a microfiber rag and brake fluid. Clean the pistons like it was a gun. Use a little Brembo grease or the-like to lightly lube the pistons and seat them down all the way. Clean the disc with brake cleaner. Get a new set of pads and install them. Re-assemble everything. Tighten things to specs while the brake is applied. Brake in the pads. You should be well.
Search hot rear brakes. There are several good posts on the subject.

Thanks, Houstonian.

 

[tribal]

Mine back brake has been dragging a little lately. Time for a seasonal take off and clean routine.

Is that offered as a Covid-compliant Drive-Through service??

JK I replaced front & rear with ones off an ’08 a few months ago.

 

[John Miller]

From first hand experience - your caliper pins and bushes are full of dirt and dust and maybe some corrosion, this causes the pads to drag. If you can clean the pins/bushes out or better still remove the pin(s) where possible and free them up I guarantee you will not have any more drag on your pads.

I had exactly the same issue, once corrected I have never had the problem again 35,000km later still free with no drag.

 

[1K9]

Is that offered as a Covid-compliant Drive-Through service??

JK I replaced front & rear with ones off an ’08 a few months ago.

Aaaaand you are right. It is easier and cheaper to buy a used one, refurbish it and replace it. Refurbish the OEM and keep for next time.

 

[Gregger]

As a rule, most brake pads will lightly drag on the brake rotor at times (cars and bikes). Ideally you want the pads as close to the rotor as possible, without touching, to reduce the amount of pedal/handle movement before pads grab. The problem - there is usually a slight amount of endplay on the wheel bearings resulting in similar endplay/runout on the rotor riding in the caliper. The pads should intermittently contact the rotor as it moves slightly on the axle shaft. Don't forget that the only thing that pulls the brake back from the rotor is the slight amount of seal deflection on the piston.... (no return springs on calipers). Because of this, you should do everything K9 mentioned to keep brake parts from hanging up to a minimum.

 

[phar2slo]

I put a set off an 08 touring after I split the front calipers and lost a small seal between the two halves due to grabbing the front rotor. I split these new to me and cleaned them up with new pads fitted it was like a new bike very good response no grabbing.

Finally found the lost seal. But had ordered the complete seal rebuild kit out of the UK.

This all happened the week of our country wide lock down back in March for a month. Have a spare set sitting on the shelf ready to swap over.