Question Regarding Single Headlight on R3T

[Rogiecrockett]

Hello,

On my Triumph America, I bought a base [from DanielSternLighting.com] designed to hold a 55W H13 bulb. The America came stock with a H4 bulb. The America has a 7" diam light and it appears the R3T has the same. I am going to switch lights as the first mod - a simple wiring harness adapter [H4 to H13] makes the conversion. The change in light output and light distribution was incredible. We are heavy on deer in our area so the additional light is for safety.

My question is: I am aware of the Eastern Beaver/DEcosse wiring kit and its purpose. For the R3T since it is a single only, is there even a need to add the wiring kit? I believe the issue I have read is related to the amount of current being pushed through the ignition switch causing the ignition switch to fail.

I ride as a commuter [110 mi roundtrip] so my plan is to ride as late as possible until snow is on the ground. Heated grips and a power outlet for heated suit will eventually be on the mod agenda. I have not installed one on the America but a power distribution module will be part of this as well.

Has Triumph fixed the ignition wiring flaw?

Or, maybe this issue does not apply to the R3T.

Thanks,
Dave.

 

[BigNorm]

Hi Dave I like the idea of the upgrade and may look into it myself. I believe that the ignition switch issue was an issue on some of the earlier bikes. Triumph addressed this issue on the newer bikes. I forget the exact years but your 2015 should be fine.

 

[Ygransom]

The biggest improvement in lighting is to change the entire headlight assembly. Led units are great but expensive. If you want to stay with a standard bulb get a new headlight unit from Daniel Stern.

 

[cr0ft]

If you're going to be rocking heated everything, you may want to ditch the idea of a 55 watter and go with LED.

Really, these days, it's the sensible thing. A Truck-lite Phase 7 (which outputs tons of bright white light) is well under $200. You can get that and two 4.5 inch driving lights to match under $400 for the set; this is a solid option for fairly affordable money. The power draw of these will be a fraction of the halogen, and give you more headroom for heated stuff.

Of course, the sky's the limit - the JW Speaker adaptive is a killer headlight, but the cost is pretty exorbitant.

Vision X Vortex plus 4.5 inchers to match is another option that will outperform the Truck-lite slightly, but at a higher cost.

You might want to peek at this also, posted it a while back.

Comparison of 12 separate 7-inch LED headlight reflectors.

Oh - and if you do go with the 55 watter anyway, another benefit of a bypass like EB etc is no voltage drop. You (potentially) get more clean power to the light and that makes it brighter than running it through the wiring harness.

 

[sonny]

I to ride a bit. commuting around 115 to 120 miles round trip daily. I work an evening shift which starts at 3:00 PM and ends at all hours of darkness. So half of my ride time is spent at night or early morning. 99% of the ride is in rural Oklahoma. Plenty of raccoons,skunks, possums, coyotes. and deer not to mention a few wild hogs. (four legged kind) The Rocket X stock headlights sucked. I ended up buying the JW Speakers daymakers. Since being a roadster two small vice one big light but still the same idea. The lights have saved my butt more than a few times. The light pattern is great on low beam. Really do not use the high beam much due to narrower pattern. I am sure that you would be happy with the low beam light pattern of the day makers. Sometimes being the brightest is not all that if it only shines a small area. The adaptive JW is a new design which self adjust while in a turn. Very expensive. The two lights I bought ran about $640.00 and do the job rather well. A 7 inch JW Speaker Daymaker runs around $700.00 and throws a nice all around light to see by. You can safely ride at 65 to 70 miles per hour and not worry to much about it. No electrical problems at all now at 17,000 miles in 10 months. EXPERIENCE TALKING. By the way before the Harley we had a 2005 american and rode the hell out of it.

 

[barbagris]

ime - The Speaker adaptive series will allow MUCH faster than 70 even on very tight unlit roads.
Yes they were/are expensive. But so is a custom exhaust, custom brakes, Supercharger, Carpenter conversion.....

I can honestly say - I can ride as fast at night now as I would during the day - and then some. It's actually scary when you think about it. But be aware that they do draw more current than the "old" Speakers in the twisties (additional BRIGHT LEDs).

7"
2.90A @ 13.5V DC (High Beam)
1.90A @ 13.5V DC (Low Beam)
3.50A @ 13.5V DC (Low Beam + Full
Lean)
0.092A @ 13.5V DC (Front Position)

5&3/4"
1.9A @ 12V DC (Low Beam)
3.2A @ 12V DC (High Beam)
.21A @ 12V DC (Front Position)
4.2A @ 12V DC (Low Beam @ Full
Lean)

With 2 * 5&3/4" Adaptives I'm seriously considering removing the additional Fog's. Nah - just kidding!.

Adaptive Series - Model 8690 Adaptive LED Motorcycle Headlights
Adaptive Series - Model 8790 Adaptive LED Headlights

The non adaptive Speakers are perfectly good if you generally ride upright.
I have a Truck-Lite in my 1979 Guzzi to reduce current Draw. But it's very very good.

Clones with DOT (or E) marks. In the past I have had lights with E marks that simply could never have passed the tests. Sold by "above the board" companies. They ask for the E mark and get it. If you look about you will actually start to see truly bona fide OEM lights that are incorrectly marked. The OEM Triumph ones for a starter.

If you want a GOOD CHEAP 7" Halogen - go to your local Auto-breakers. I have a stunning H4 7" light that came from a Toyota 4WD - made by Hella - cost 3 Euros (yes - three) for a pair. One went into my then Harley. The other is sat here just in case.

 

[cr0ft]

The light pattern is great on low beam. Really do not use the high beam much due to narrower pattern.

I have an 8700 and that one doesn't really have a narrower pattern, though. However, aim on these things is crucial, just a hair off up or down and you're lighting up tree tops or the ground right in front of you, took some work to get it dialed in. Maybe you should check alignment?

But I do envy the Roadsters the dual lights. The driving lights do good things for lighting up close, but I wouldn't mind twice the light down range.

 

[barbagris]

I have an 8700 and that one doesn't really have a narrower pattern, though. However, aim on these things is crucial, just a hair off up or down and you're lighting up tree tops or the ground right in front of you, took some work to get it dialed in. Maybe you should check alignment?

But I do envy the Roadsters the dual lights. The driving lights do good things for lighting up close, but I wouldn't mind twice the light down range.

Have you looked at the 8415 Evo lights? 4.5" HEADLIGHTS - DOT/E approved. Cheap really!. Can´t hurt! Hell I´m considering a pair - just for testing. Not much in teh way of lumens BUT not close in fogs.

 

[sonny]

Lights not adjusted correctly

 

[BigNorm]

If you're going to be rocking heated everything, you may want to ditch the idea of a 55 watter and go with LED.

Really, these days, it's the sensible thing. A Truck-lite Phase 7 (which outputs tons of bright white light) is well under $200. You can get that and two 4.5 inch driving lights to match under $400 for the set; this is a solid option for fairly affordable money. The power draw of these will be a fraction of the halogen, and give you more headroom for heated stuff.

Of course, the sky's the limit - the JW Speaker adaptive is a killer headlight, but the cost is pretty exorbitant.

Vision X Vortex plus 4.5 inchers to match is another option that will outperform the Truck-lite slightly, but at a higher cost.

You might want to peek at this also, posted it a while back.

Comparison of 12 separate 7-inch LED headlight reflectors.

Oh - and if you do go with the 55 watter anyway, another benefit of a bypass like EB etc is no voltage drop. You (potentially) get more clean power to the light and that makes it brighter than running it through the wiring harness.

What do you mean by EB croft? Would it be better just to run another relay for the front headlight?