Primary Throttle position fault?

vicvet

.020 Over
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Mar 10, 2017
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38
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2012 R3 Roadster
2012 roadster, Ramair, Tors, 20355 tune. New vacuum hoses, good plug wires, iridium plugs, new fuel filter, balanced maps, checked and quadruple checked tps voltages. 😮‍💨
Ran a 15 min tune (sounded good), TOUCHED NOTHING, and suddenly the throttle percent bounced between 0.8, 1.2 and 2.7, engine coughed and stopped. Engine off throttle % was 1.2 then 0.8.
Restarted easily, held throttle steady and throttle % bounced wildly (so did the rpms) .
Has been running rough at any speed but not when there is a 'load' on the engine (going up hill or accelerating).
All I can think of is that the primary tps is fubared. What do the gurus say?
 
Missed saying that I also replaced the gps with the newer upgrade too.
 
2012 roadster, Ramair, Tors, 20355 tune. New vacuum hoses, good plug wires, iridium plugs, new fuel filter, balanced maps, checked and quadruple checked tps voltages. 😮‍💨
Ran a 15 min tune (sounded good), TOUCHED NOTHING, and suddenly the throttle percent bounced between 0.8, 1.2 and 2.7, engine coughed and stopped. Engine off throttle % was 1.2 then 0.8.
Restarted easily, held throttle steady and throttle % bounced wildly (so did the rpms) .
Has been running rough at any speed but not when there is a 'load' on the engine (going up hill or accelerating).
All I can think of is that the primary tps is fubared. What do the gurus say?
Ive read on here the irridium plugs arnt suitable for this motor, also check this out after loading a modified map by a very Clever Clavinger on this forum noted in this attachment states and I can clarify that... Good luck
 
Ive read on here the irridium plugs arnt suitable for this motor, also check this out after loading a modified map by a very Clever Clavinger on this forum noted in this attachment states and I can clarify that... Good luck
Check the vacuum hoses again, make sure going to the right place and not kinked, or spray some carburetor cleaner around the hoses and TB boots or starting fluid and see if the idle speeds up.
I think you're right could be the TPS itself, take the TPS off and spray some electrical contact cleaner and WD-40 in the back of the switch and move it back and forth with a screwdriver try to get the contacts cleaner and see if it changes, gets better, if it does get a new one. check the primary coil connectors I've seen a lot on here the clips loosen up, crimp together a little with pliers and try this:
dry with towel and spray contact cleaner and dry good and dielectric grease is your friend, stay away from low voltage signal wires like injectors and ECU, never heard the one about iradium plugs, I've had them for at least 500 miles, seemed to work better, plus I would think both plugs would have to miss fire, go foul at the same time to keep it from firing, I would think it would still run pretty good with 1 plug per cylinder, also I think you can check the secondary plug wire's, but doubtful for 2 per cylinder to not fire at the same time, go bad at the same time, but I guess one could have gone bad a while ago and now 2nd one going out, I think the one
I have a different problem though, mine died on me twice in about a 50 mile trip, like a hit the kill switch, but was weird, started right back up and sounds great, I'm going to put the original tune back in and adjust TPS and stepper again, but could be a TPS going out too I think, but I have no sputtering, just shuts off while riding, it's starting a little different than last year, over the winter something happened just sitting. Plus I'm thinking stand switch, or ignition switch, will probably get it tuned professionally on Dyno too after I figure out the problem. Plus intermittent problems are difficult.
Enjoy, GL
 
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Missed saying that I also replaced the gps with the newer upgrade too.

Have you done the tacho wiring mod and are you certain the adapter fly lead is plugged into the right places?
Very easy mix up between speed sensor and TPS;
 
Have you done the tacho wiring mod and are you certain the adapter fly lead is plugged into the right places?
Very easy mix up between speed sensor and TPS;
Yes, followed the instructions from someone smart with pictures on this forum.
 
Check the vacuum hoses again, make sure going to the right place and not kinked, or spray some carburetor cleaner around the hoses and TB boots or starting fluid and see if the idle speeds up.
I think you're right could be the TPS itself, take the TPS off and spray some electrical contact cleaner and WD-40 in the back of the switch and move it back and forth with a screwdriver try to get the contacts cleaner and see if it changes, gets better, if it does get a new one. check the primary coil connectors I've seen a lot on here the clips loosen up, crimp together a little with pliers and try this:
dry with towel and spray contact cleaner and dry good and dielectric grease is your friend, stay away from low voltage signal wires like injectors and ECU, never heard the one about iradium plugs, I've had them for at least 500 miles, seemed to work better, plus I would think both plugs would have to miss fire, go foul at the same time to keep it from firing, I would think it would still run pretty good with 1 plug per cylinder, also I think you can check the secondary plug wire's, but doubtful for 2 per cylinder to not fire at the same time, go bad at the same time, but I guess one could have gone bad a while ago and now 2nd one going out, I think the one
I have a different problem though, mine died on me twice in about a 50 mile trip, like a hit the kill switch, but was weird, started right back up and sounds great, I'm going to put the original tune back in and adjust TPS and stepper again, but could be a TPS going out too I think, but I have no sputtering, just shuts off while riding, it's starting a little different than last year, over the winter something happened just sitting. Plus I'm thinking stand switch, or ignition switch, will probably get it tuned professionally on Dyno too after I figure out the problem. Plus intermittent problems are difficult.
Enjoy, GL
Sorry, forgot to mention that I cleaned and crimped the low voltage leads to the coils too!
 
Sorry, forgot to mention that I cleaned and crimped the low voltage leads to the coils too!
I would try contact cleaner in the back of TPS like I said just to see if it makes a difference, and if it does replace, or I don't know but if you hook up an ohmmeter to the TPS connector and open and close the throttle non running of course and see if the meter jump's around a lot, mostly dropping out, going to a higher resistance, or is it smooth through the range, just thinking there might be some dead spots, when I check mine I'll tell you, but I think it's a potentiometer and they tend to get burnt spots, dead spots, I would think that would be the first to check. if it's smooth I would say it's okay, but decosse, or IDK, or turbo know more than me, I'm not a car or motorcycle mechanic, just by interest and necessity $, I'm not rich, that would be my "X" 😞
But if you're like my "X" just pay the what about $150 for a nice shinny new one and be over with it, but like my "X" that can get very expensive in the long run, but hey you have a lot of extra parts that are good.
GL
Just checking when you did the coils did you add grease! I put that s**t on everything, except the ECU inside and injectors!!!
 
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I would try contact cleaner in the back of TPS like I said just to see if it makes a difference, and if it does replace, or I don't know but if you hook up an ohmmeter to the TPS connector and open and close the throttle non running of course and see if the meter jump's around a lot, mostly dropping out, going to a higher resistance, or is it smooth through the range, just thinking there might be some dead spots, when I check mine I'll tell you, but I think it's a potentiometer and they tend to get burnt spots, dead spots, I would think that would be the first to check. if it's smooth I would say it's okay, but decosse, or IDK, or turbo know more than me, I'm not a car or motorcycle mechanic, just by interest and necessity $, I'm not rich, that would be my "X" 😞
But if you're like my "X" just pay the what about $150 for a nice shinny new one and be over with it, but like my "X" that can get very expensive in the long run, but hey you have a lot of extra parts that are good.
GL
Just checking when you did the coils did you add grease! I put that s**t on everything, except the ECU inside and injectors!!!
Thank you, did grease everything! Found this on amazon.ca and wonder if it would work for Triumph? sure looks similar.
Have deal with wife, anything I get for bike, $ for$ goes towards Fluvog shoes for her... That makes everything twice the price but still cheaper than an 'X'.
 

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may have got some air in the injector feed to cause it to stall
if u r looking at tuneecu the values on the bottom r the secondary values and will swing wild.
 
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