Power source options.

[Tony Casey]

Finally sorted out my power commander v and AT too work together, the problem i was having there was a bad connection on the positive side. I had connected the power wire to my rear brake light, tapping into the wire with the tags supplied by dynajet this gave me insufficient power to power up the autotune. My question to all of you out there with the same setup where did you draw your power source from, there my be a better solution that i could try.

 

[Ishrub]

I was lazy and just shoved the AT200's thin bared red wire tip into the fuse block alongside a blade fuse that powered up with ignition. Always intended to wire in but it has been working fine for about 10,000km now.

 

[Ygransom]

I used an Eastern Beaver PC8 fuse block. I think that if your adding accessories need a fuse block rather than tapping into existing curcuits. Makes it easy to trouble shoot later.

 

[Jag]

I just installed a PDM60 - Rowe Electronics
Totally programmable and very nicely made. Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap
Is the best way to tap into a wire.

 

[Claviger]

I used positaps as well, connected to the rear running ligh circuit, though I use all LED lights, so there’s a good bit of overhead light circuits on my bike.

One of these days I’ll rip out all the wiring and redo the harness to actually take full advantage of my PDM60.

While we’re on the topic of electricity, just picked up the attached for my car. It’s the only 12V to lightning power source I’ve found yet that actually fast charges the phone. Nice because an IPhone + sized phone with screen on running GPS, BT streaming music will “barely” charge from a 1/2 amp usb plug with all that running.

 

[barbagris]

PDM60 - I used the wire that feeds the California EVAP box (which I don't have) to trigger it on. I HATE TAPS

 

[Kenneth67]

A simple relay, activated by the taillight/DRL live connector under right hand side cover.

Shove the live wire supplying relay electromagnet into said connector (between the spade and the connector wall) from the rear lol.
Tape the 2 wires together to stop it coming out, and a short bit of heat shrink over the whole lot for neatness.

Live supply for the switched circuit then can come direct from battery + (include an inline fuse)

+1 on positaps and T-taps etc may be quick and easy but they are sh1t finish/awkward in wiring layout terms imo