powder coat alternative

biker1059

Turbocharged
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
792
Location
Longview, TX
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Rocket GT
Here's a product I saw on another forum that looks pretty good. Don't think its as good as powder coating but worth a try. I think I'm going to get some to put on the bear claw and other chrome bits.
Home - DipYourCar.com
 
Interesting. One of the reasons I haven't cut my bear claw is I didn't know what I would coat it with after the cut.. Have to look into this. Red would look pretty cool with my flames.. :)
 
Check out my here it is thread, I cut the BC and had it painted for $60 came out really well, just got to make sure the chrome is prepped properly.
 
painting over chrome is easy.

in order for paint to stick, polished chrome is about impossible to paint with good results unless you remove the chrome. it's easy, go to a lumber yard or lowes, etc, and get a bottle of muriatic acid. pour half of the volume of muriatic acid into a plastic bucket that will hold twice that volume. now add the same amount of water slowly, just like you would with an old car battery. two very important precautions, perhaps three. (1) do this outside and downwind so you don't breathe the fumes, (2) when mixing acid to water always add water to the acid, never acid to the water as this can cause a violent chemical reaction, and (3) wear goggles and rubber gloves, muriatic acid likes to eat skin.
now back to the method, pour for example a gallon of water into the bucket which already has a gallon of water in it. it will self mix. this gives you two gallons of solution and the last muriatic acid i used cost about 6 or 7 bucks a gallon, pretty cheap considering what it'll do. hook a steel wire like bailing wire to the part you want to dip and gently dip it into the bucket covering however much you can of the part with the solution. take the part out after a half hour to see if you got down to the steel base of the bear claw and turn it top for bottom if it didn't immerse completely so that the acid can attack the other half of the part. you'll know when the chrome is gone cause it'll no longer be shiny and chromed. duh for that part, sorry. rinse completely with clean water and carefully with using the aforementioned goggles and gloves, safety, etc. dry the part with a cloth, paper towels, whatever you have around. you now have a paintable surface, but rough up the surface prior to priming it so the paint will stick. por 15 is a priming product available at auto paint stores. on an added note, do not, i repeat, do not dip chromed aluminum, magnesium, or other exotic metals because not only does muriatic acid eat skin, it'll disolve aluminum, and perhaps act violently with magnesium. this is the easiest way i've found to remove chrome from steel. find a suitable place to dump the acid mix like an old stump you've been trying to get rid of or wherever is safe for you, and legal of course.
 
(2) when mixing acid to water always add water to the acid, never acid to the water as this can cause a violent chemical reaction

I'm no Chemist but I pretty sure that's backwards. Adding acid (slowly) to water lessens the reaction and the relatively high volume of water is able to cool the heat caused by the reaction.
 
absolutely backwards....always add acid to water (slowly)...from a chemist (38 years!!).

It's less of a problem with dilute and weak acids, but if you add water directly to concentrated sulfuric acid you're in for big trouble....

please follow this advice.
 
now back to the method, pour for example a gallon of water into the bucket which already has a gallon of water in it. it will self mix. this gives you two gallons of solution and the last muriatic acid i used cost about 6 or 7 bucks a gallon, pretty cheap considering what it'll do.

At least this part :)
 
I'd just lightly bead blast it to provide 'tooth' for the coating to adhere to. I can blow the chrome off steel very quickly with glass beads.

A word on powder coating...

Powder coating is a low temperature cure ceramic coating. As a ceramic derivative, it's brittle and prone to cratering from impact plus, if it does crater, it's almost impossible to touch up and overcoating has to be after a total strip of the base cured coat.
 
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