PC8 fuse block questions

Rayvin

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Joined
Jun 29, 2010
Messages
166
Ok, I read all the PC8 threads I could find, plus the directions on Jim's Eastern Beaver site, but I still have a couple of questions and figured I'd ask you guys for advice before I wire the thing up this morning. I did the H4 relay kit last year and like the brighter lights--no brainer on that mod.
Going to put the PC8 rear of the battery, velcroed to the plastic below the seat latch mount. Where's the best place to connect the blue switching wire from that area? Got the 18" relay kit if that helps.
Also not sure which circuits to put which accessories. Here's what I have, previously going to the battery terminals:
1. GPS
2. 12v access. socket
3. H4 relay wires
4. Cruise control
5. 2 strands of led accent lights (PO had them on, never use them but will probably leave them attached)
6. battery tender

I figured I'd leave the batt tender going straight to the battery unless there's a benefit to running through the PC8. Same for the H4 relay wires.
The PC8 gives me two 15a, two 10a, a 7.5a, two 5a, and a 2a fuse. Two unswitched connections and 6 switched.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, and not sure of the amperage ratings for the various accessories.
 
Depending on how you use GPS will determine if its to a switched or unswitched circuit. Put cruise and accent lights on switched circuits. Leave battery tender on battery.
 
Quick reply appreciated, ransom. Got any ideas on which fuses would be appropriate for which accessories? I think I'll use a switched for the GPS to prevent accidentally leaving it on and draining the batt.
Also, know where to tap into for the switching wire?
Thanks.
 
Wound up hooking the switching wire to a wire under the right side cover that I saw the heated grip relay wire going into (duh). Then I used the 15a unswitched for the 12v outlet, the 10a unswitched for the LED lights (for some reason they won't worked on a switched ciruit), the 15a switched for the cruise, and the 7.5a switched for the GPS.
Wish I knew why the switched connections (tried them all) won't work for the led lights. But everything's working fine otherwise.
 
Pictures Rayvin???
Some of us are less talented (or lucky) than you :confused:
When it comes to electrical projects...
Thanks for the explanation of it tho.
Hopefully not everybody is as far behind the curve as I am on electrical stuff.
 
I hooked my Switch wire to the taillight hot wire.
Battery tender to battery.
Accessorey outlet- switched
Gi pro - switched
Stebil- switched
Headlight relays- switched
Keyless ignition- Unswitched
 
I hooked my Switch wire to the taillight hot wire.
Battery tender to battery.
Accessorey outlet- switched
Gi pro - switched
Stebil- switched
Headlight relays- switched
Keyless ignition- Unswitched


You may want to reconsider running the Stebel through the fuse block. Jim, the Eastern Beaver guy, has this posted on his website:

IMPORTANT: You can connect a Horn Kit through an auxiliary fuse panel only if you don't have a lot of high current stuff already connected. A high powered horn like the Nautilus can draw 16 Amps and that could blow the main fuse on your fuse panel if you're already drawing more than 14 Amps. I suggest connecting a Horn Kit directly to the battery so your fuse panel retains its full capacity. Add up the Amps from your horn or horns if you are wondering if you should connect to your fuse panel. More than 10 Amps of horn(s) should go directly on the battery.​
 
Yeah, b-cause if you fart and honk the horn at the same time you could explode !!:D





.... that or cause the lights to dim in Vegas.
 
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