Nitto is the best tire!!

syro-

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Jan 29, 2012
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i have always been more of a stocker on this forum reviewing everyone post and getting really good ideas for modifying bike bike, so thanks to all.
I just want to post this because no one has. i ride my bike pretty aggressive, 12 o'clock wheelies from a dead stop, scraping pegs around corners, ect... I love the way this bike is set up. I decided to lower the bike one inch. what i didn't realize is that it would screw up my launches. instead of griping from a stop all it would do is spin out. to fix this problem I decided to go to the dark side. After extensive review of this forum, i went with the riken rapter. when i put it on the bike. I did not like the look. to me it felt like i was turning it into a dirt bike. The tire was just way to nubby. and it did not grip any good from a dead stop. the cornering is kind of like what is expected.
I come from the land of the boss hoss and all those guys ride nitto's so i decided to give them a try. I was really impressed with the way it looked and the way it handled. grips solid from a dead stop, corners great and no one askes me if i plan on going off roading. So in my opinion if you ride more like a street fighter and you want an agressive dark side tire go with the nitto you wont be disappointed.
first pick is the rapter and the second is the nitto
 

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Syro, I am not much for the Car tire dude I get to much traction with good motorcycle tires. I must say I love the look of your rear fender though. Did you do it yourself or have it done?
 
darksider here. glad you are enjoying it.

Like Warp, I'm digg'n the cut fender and would appreciate any details. taillight setup? measurements, etc.
 
If i would have left the bike at stock hieght i would prob not be on the car tire. But if you lower your bike and want it to hook up, your gonna need more rubber on the ground, stop light races are won in the first 60 feet right!

Did all the work my self based on what others her have done. Dont really have any measurement. I just taped off a line that looked good to me and took my jig saw to it. Then i spent about 2 hour hand sanding the line with a metal file, finnally used some touchup pant to finnish the line.

I can still scrap the pegs. the bike handles like the michlin after 10,000 miles of burn outs.
It is kinda hard to get it to turn but when you get up on its edge, it turns. The car tire makes the bike feel alot wider. Its alot more work to ride the bike. You always are counter steeling, even on straight roads. No more "look no hands" like with the motorcycle tire. If i didnt have to be so dam cool and lower my bike i would be on the bike tire.
 
I do not worry about traction as when I dump the Throttle the bike squats back and flattens out the 240 motorcycle tire. Then I am gone :D

Things are happening quickly above 6000 rpms as the blower is spooled up and starting to eat the air. It's neat shifting into fourth at 145 mph also a little harry as the front end wants to rise a bit:eek:
 
have you lowered your bike? I know with the stock suspension my bike hooked up great. When i lowered it, all i could do is burn out. it is amazing the difference off the line.
 
have you lowered your bike? I know with the stock suspension my bike hooked up great. When i lowered it, all i could do is burn out. it is amazing the difference off the line.
I used taller shocks 350 mm about 1.75" taller to put mor eweight ion the front for the twisties. The bike still squats back and hooks up fine unless the roads are dusty. I tried it with the YSS shocks at 10 mm taller and she still dumps back great. The taller shocks mainly affect the flickability of the bike.
Dark side tires cause mor ecounter steering by nature which is why it is easier to grind the pegs it the mathematics of the tilt from a different center line then the front which adds to the counter steering affect. I find that money saved in tires go for new pegs to grind down. Never seen any race driver grind there pegs why slow the bike down with a anchor. Go for a better line thru the curve without draging. Of course this is my opinion and I am sure others will dissagree with it. In the end I am still on my stock floor boards which is a savings in itself.

I also run at higher speeds then most which worrying about control of the wallering tire and the death wobble it is a must for safety, especially above 165 mph.
 
yep, taller makes the bike handle better, no doubt. i was still the first one through needles highway compared to all my hd friends.

i have also added about 2 inches to my foot pegs. i tend to drape my leg over them when i ride.

I did not go to the dark side to save money, when it comes to the only thing between me and the ground i will pay what ever it costs. I just like beating every cruiser off the line. I did not buy this bike for high speed racing or for its ability to handle the twisties. i have my 2006 speed triple for that, right! but 150 pounds of torque being laid down off the line, now that fun.

i run a 12 inch shock with 120/175 spring on one side and a 210/250 spring on the other. stance is what i was looking for and the fun factor is still high.

so warp, what all do you have done to that thing? you feel the extra 50 pounds from the super charger? was it worth it. i was thinking on the naturally aspirated route myself, if i had the money. or did you do that stuff to?
 
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