My R3 classic won't start sometimes.

chrisdouglas

Rocket III Classic 2009 and BMW Montauk R1200c 04
Joined
Mar 24, 2016
Messages
37
Location
UK
My R3 classic has started to not start. The battery is charged and the clock says the right time. I put the key in and turn it to the start position expecting it to light up the dials and push the petrol gauge dial around and back down and make that reassuring whirring BUT it appears to be dead no lights on and won't start.
Try and try turning the key then suddenly its back - lights on and I rush to start it, but I'm worried about what happening - something is wrong. Its only when the bike is switched off it plays up - when its going along normally its as if theres been nothing wrong - HELP
Chris
 
Pretty good chance that a wire has come un-soldered in the ignition switch. It is possible to take the switch apart and re-solder it, but you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws - which you then replace with regular metric screws or bolts. If you don't have an ignition bypass for the headlights then the problem will arise again. One day it will fail while you are riding if you don't fix it.
 
probably the ignition switch. there are several threads on this subject about changing and repairing it.
some times it is best to post the kind of bike in avatar info.
the best way to check is across the fuse (i think it is marked with the headlihgt image) with volt meter. u can also see if the headlight is working when it is acting up.
thew more info u can give the better we can help.
 
Pretty good chance that a wire has come un-soldered in the ignition switch. It is possible to take the switch apart and re-solder it, but you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws - which you then replace with regular metric screws or bolts. If you don't have an ignition bypass for the headlights then the problem will arise again. One day it will fail while you are riding if you don't fix it.


it is very possible that idk is right although my theory is the contacts inside are bad and it will heat the solder and melt it then the wire will come out then u will be walking.
+1 on the bypass. or u will be walking.:)
there is also info on how to wire temp to get home. also remote ign switch.
 
Pretty good chance that a wire has come un-soldered in the ignition switch.

TURBO200R4 said:
although my theory is the contacts inside are bad and it will heat the solder and melt it

Agree sounds very symptomatic of the key-switch failure; (if you search you will find is extremely common)
I don't believe there is a problem with the contacts being necessary 'bad', its just down to the current its passing;
but sure, you need resistance to generate heat - but it doesn't take much!


idk said:
It is possible to take the switch apart and re-solder it, but you will have to remove two tamper-proof screws
Generally re-soldering will fix it - if you have neither ignition nor lights it is going to be the white wire that has come adrfit
You can actually access the switch plate without having to undo the tamper proof screws & access by removing the bottom cover.
(you still need to access it however, remove the triple clamp)


If you don't have an ignition bypass for the headlights then the problem will arise again....

Yes, to prevent re-occurrence you should fit a headlight/key-switch bypass relay kit
OR - you just go KeyLess and bypass it that way - much more fun :D
 
My R3 classic has started to not start. The battery is charged and the clock says the right time. I put the key in and turn it to the start position expecting it to light up the dials and push the petrol gauge dial around and back down and make that reassuring whirring BUT it appears to be dead no lights on and won't start.
Try and try turning the key then suddenly its back - lights on and I rush to start it, but I'm worried about what happening - something is wrong. Its only when the bike is switched off it plays up - when its going along normally its as if theres been nothing wrong - HELP
Chris


IF IT WAS MY BIKE I WOULD REPLACE THE ignition switch and do the bypass i hate walking:whitstling::whitstling:
 
Yes, to prevent re-occurrence you should fit a headlight/key-switch bypass relay kit
OR - you just go KeyLess and bypass it that way - much more fun :D


Slightly off thread but hopefully not too much. @DEcosse, on my 05, I did the Chicom Daymaker copies. Did I read somewhere that you said the "headlight/key-switch bypass relay kit" and/or the "Hands-free Key-Less Ignition" are NOT needed if this LED headlamp is installed due to it drawing less power ????????
Sorry for veer from thread question :confused:
 
i think that i had said that once a long time ago but i was wrong. i think that u would be wise to do the by pass
 
Well Key-Less and Key-switch-Bypass Headlight Relays are two different things

The 'traditional' relay bypass system
There are two features of a key-switch bypass, headlight relay system (as applies to the early models i.e. pre-Roadster):
1. It bypasses the current to headlights from going through the key-switch, removing the threat of melting the solder pad which causes failure of the switch
2. It improves the voltage at the lamp socket which results in brighter, whiter light. i.e. more volts = more lumens.

How are these features affected by LED?
1. Lesser concern, since you are dropping from 12A down to about 7 (just slightly more than a single-lamp Touring model) - it may still be worthwhile, just for peace of mind, to eliminate any potential
2. Moot - the voltage is already being reduced from what is supplied with an LED, plus the voltage drop would be less anyway, so there is zero performance value.

With a Roadster there is no headlight current through the key-switch anyway, as has bypass relay already built-in*.
Slightly different in execution however and you may still still realize some performance improvement (although not as much as you would in say a Classic) with incandescents; however not a consideration for reliability OR performance if running LEDs.

Regarding KeyLess - that fundamentally bypasses the key-switch anyway, so addresses the reliability aspect regarding failure of that component.
It does not necessarily give any performance improvement for incandescent however, so separate relay upgrade might still be beneficial there.
But for LEDs that additional relay set would not be required and again, for Roadsters with incandescents that extra relay set would be of limited value.

*Note that 'early' Roadsters (up VIN 482857 and from 500141 to 503166) did not have this, but there is a Factory upgrade kit that facilitates this to the later design (not sure if this was a recall or goodwill upgrade?)
 
Back
Top