M6 Thread Blues

RockOn

Turbocharged
Joined
Feb 22, 2018
Messages
553
Location
Escondido, CA
Ride
2006 R3 Classic, 2008 R3T, 2009 Harley Ultra
Finished installing a Ramair unit, went to hold down tank with the chrome Allen head bolt and it won't go but maybe a 1/4" into the threads. I think I know what happened. When I first held up the tank with the strut it didn't seem right but the correct end of rod was in the hole and was holding up the tank so I continued on. I now think I was resting the rod end on the female threads about a 1/4" into the hole and that messed the threads up. Now, I see why it did not feel right because I see the rod should go down into the hole 1.5 to 2.0". sheesh. I've done it correctly a dozen times in the past and now I mess it up. So, I ordered a tap and die for an M6 bolt and hope that works on the male and female threads. If not I guess the next thing will be to drill out the hole and use helicoil or time-serts or something like that. Don't know if those can be had in very small diameters like M6, M8, M10, etc. :(:unsure:
 
i would suggest u go to a bolt place and buy a bolt that is about 6 inches long
u may b able to gauge the angle and start it if u can u can use a SMALL HAMMER and tap on it down and side ways to repair that thread.
i dought that the hood rod did anything to the threads more than likely u just got it cross threaded.
i would try this first before the tap.
if u have a helper u can remove the bolt and nut in the back and set tank on boards and towel.
good luck
 
i would suggest u go to a bolt place and buy a bolt that is about 6 inches long
u may b able to gauge the angle and start it if u can u can use a SMALL HAMMER and tap on it down and side ways to repair that thread.
i dought that the hood rod did anything to the threads more than likely u just got it cross threaded.
i would try this first before the tap.
if u have a helper u can remove the bolt and nut in the back and set tank on boards and towel.
good luck
I would second that but it can be helpful if you run a cut off wheel vertical for an inch or so at the end of the threads.... against the thread it can help TAP out the bad areas while allowing you to use the longer bolt. Grease the **** out of the bolt and send it, Like a Clark Kent 😏 not superman
 
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Progress Report: I tried a long M6 bolt per Turbo's good idea but no success regarding improvement. Regarding Stillserving's idea I ordered an M6 thread chaser and in short order flattened it's threads as if it was made of cheese. Then I tried an M6 tap with threads seemingly as tough as titanium or diamonds but with it's tiny square end I could only use a crescent wrench to turn it VS the long horizontal handle that came with the tap. It was useless with the steering head and handlebars in the way. The tap was so tight it scared me off from cranking on it with the crescent for fear of snapping it off in the hole. The M6 die was however useful for repairing the rounded threads on the M6 fixing screw for the tank. I think the thread chaser, although it now appears destroyed, did enough good that I can now get the M6 tank fixing screw to thread down far enough to hold the tank down tight.

In the hands of a competent biker I think any one of the ideas offered could have done the trick better and quicker than I managed. However, you are not dealing with the sharpest tool in the shed. :roll: Thanks for your ideas, all of which were good.

This little project has got me thinking about trying a quick release hitch type pin in the future. I use them to replace the three seat hold down bolts on my R3 Touring, thanks to the clever ideas I have seen on the forum. Seems to me such a pin would work okay if I can find one with the proper dimensions. Hard to find a vendor who gives you all the dimensions you need in order to know if it will fit down into the hole far enough for the ball bearings to clear the bottom and allowing the proper room between the top of the pin and bottom of the plunger/handle mechanism, etc. I suppose I could fill any excessive gap causing looseness with rubber washers or plastic bushing of the right diameter and thickness.
 
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