K&N Air Filter

[RocketDaryl]

I hear/read differing opinions about these (and other high flow) filters. The pro is they supposedly allow more air in. The con argument is they also, because of the more open flow, allow more dirt/trash in. Is there any objective/scientific data to support either position? I see where Triumph sales a high flow filter for the Thunderbird for $85.00. I changed my pipes to British Customs "Hog Slayers" and the tune has been changed to the TOR tune, but I didn't change the filter. The bike runs good so I'm not inclined to change anything else unless the bike will benefit.

 

[Sidecar Flip]

I don't see any problem with K&N's allowing more dirt in, not because I sll them but they have plenty of data to back up their filters plus they have a very modern test facility where they real world test their products all the time.

I run K&N's in all my vehicles, bikes, cars, trucks, farm tractors even the lawnmowers and I can get you any model specific K&N for your bike and much less than the dealer wants.

 

[RocketDaryl]

Now remember, before you go thinking "what a dumbass!", I'm a CPA, not a mechanic. Now that that's out of the way. Since my bike is pretty much stock, doesn't run on the lean side of normal, and if so, wouldn't putting in a high flow make it run leaner?

 

[Sidecar Flip]

I'm not a mechanic either. I'm a part time diesel dummy, website owner, farmer who just happens to have his journeymans card in tool and die making and just happened to buy machine tools before retiring. It's a hobby.......

I know what works for me. Thats what counts...........

No. well. not necessarily. It's digitally encoded fuel injection so the computer compensates the a/f ratio to make up for less restriction in the intake tract. Just like adding a K&N under the hood of your car. The ECU will adjust the a/f ratio as close as it can to optimum.

The rub on the Rock's are these Captains are altering their digital encoding to the point where it becomes necessary to artificially dial in the A/F ratio in search of horsepower without detonation.

I've been running K&N's right along on my Classic with a Baxter's tune that Gus installed when he rebuilt my motor. I did add a Dobeck analog controller this spring but only to smooth out the midrange, not for power. I'm 61. My basically stock R3 has all the power I need and then some.

There is nothing wrong, either fiscally or longevity wise, going from the stock filter to a K&N or K&N's. The OEM pleated paper filter costs more than one K&N and it's a throw away. the K&N isn't. I've had a K&N in my '97 F350 Diesel since new. It paid for itself 3 times now.

Interesting too, I was concerned too, about dirt getting past the filter on my Powerstroke. That engine is a 9K replacment and it's turbo'd. I coated the intake, intercooler hoses inside with vaseline and check it to see, if any dirt got past the filter (I live on a dirt road). Nothing ever did. That's good enough for me.

 

[Pig9r]

I went through a period where I did a bunch of reading on filters and which ones were the best. I have run K&Ns on my truck and motorcycles. Of course the foam filter manufacturers said they were the best and the oiled cotton gauze over wire mesh said they were the best. But one thing I found is that paper appears to be the best filter media in stopping small particles and flow rates are that great.

I don't think anything is wrong with a K&N type filter. On my truck the only change I noticed was more intake noise and it would rev a little faster than with the stock filter. On the Rocket, I would expect the same from a swap with the under seat filter. Of course triple K&Ns are a different story.

You could always do an oil analysis to see what is showing up in your engine.

This almost had me scared off of K&N and Unis:

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[Sidecar Flip]

Always good to be analytical Pigger, that is, somthing I've always admired about you. Comes with the territory right.....

Intrerestingly, My little KLR came with a factory oiled foam filter and the presumed 'hot setup' is a Uni oiled foam, which, is strikingly similar to the OEM unit but of course cheaper (I can get Uni's as well as K&N by the way...) Because the KLR is carburetted (Kehin CVK), it's relatively easy to ascertain a/f ratio's using the plug chop method. I switched the OEM to a K&N with an overwrap and had to jet up 2 sized and pull the needle one notch to get the desired plug color. Of course my fuel mileage dropped a bit, from 60 Avmpg to around 55. I even have a K&N in my lawnmower.

Argualbly, the best all around air cleaner but not practical for mobile application is an oil bath.