Impractical Precision - Battery Saga

TriumPhil

Living Legend
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Messages
11,444
Location
Long Valley, NJ
Ride
'07 Mulberry Red, Carpentered & Bruted R3 Standard
It was predictable that my battery would fail to turn over my Rock's engine, now that colder weather has arrived. After sitting unused for 4-5 days, with nightly lows in the 40s, today was the day that she choked and, adding insult to injury, all this occurred within a day of planning to install a much-needed pigtail connection for my battery tender, so I won't have to remove the seat each time I need to use it.

All goes well until I attempt to fasten the positive lead to the battery, which already has another lead, from my GI Pro, I believe, attached to it. Would you believe that the addition of the battery tender's lead prevents the bolt on the battery's anode from threading??? The lead from the tender can't be much more than 1/32" thick! Do you think that Triumph takes its precision engineering a bit to far?
 
Not having to disconnect battery every time I added or changed an accessory is why I went to a dual circuit fuse block from Eastern Beaver. Also with only 2 ring tabs on each battery post they stay tight.
 
I feel your pain Phil.

I ended up splicing a couple of my "hot" wires for accessories into the positive battery cable itself; to negate the need to connect all positive accessory connections to the + battery terminal itself (all accessory connections are still fused though...)
 
I had the same problem. I took a flat head screw driver and lifted up the nut on the battery and that was enough to get the bolt threaded. It's been on for serveral thousand miles and is still tight.
 
phil if the 625 is not available the 628 will fit ( I HAVE ONE INSTALLED)
 
A trick I learned a while back was that when installing a new battery cut off about 3/8" of the old vent tube and squeeze it under the nuts. This holds the nuts tight to the battery posts and is so simple. BTW I am still using the original battery that came with my bike in 2004! Always starts even on cold northern mornings.
 
Starting an R3 on a winter morning with a stock battery? That is a remarkable feat.
 
It was predictable that my battery would fail to turn over my Rock's engine, now that colder weather has arrived. After sitting unused for 4-5 days, with nightly lows in the 40s, today was the day that she choked and, adding insult to injury, all this occurred within a day of planning to install a much-needed pigtail connection for my battery tender, so I won't have to remove the seat each time I need to use it.

All goes well until I attempt to fasten the positive lead to the battery, which already has another lead, from my GI Pro, I believe, attached to it. Would you believe that the addition of the battery tender's lead prevents the bolt on the battery's anode from threading??? The lead from the tender can't be much more than 1/32" thick! Do you think that Triumph takes its precision engineering a bit to far?

Triumph don't manufacture batteries, Yuhasa does. They buy batteries to install in bikes, like spark plugs and brake pads and rotors and a couple hundred other things.

The trick is......

I had the same problem. I took a flat head screw driver and lifted up the nut on the battery and that was enough to get the bolt threaded. It's been on for serveral thousand miles and is still tight.

Fixing studs are purposely designed that way, to accept only one lug, for safety and to discourage cabbage wiring jobs.....:)
 
A trick I learned a while back was that when installing a new battery cut off about 3/8" of the old vent tube and squeeze it under the nuts. This holds the nuts tight to the battery posts and is so simple. BTW I am still using the original battery that came with my bike in 2004! Always starts even on cold northern mornings.

Must be garaged in the bedroom.
 
Back
Top