I'm going to get some stick

bebsy

Finicky
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
298
Location
Pattya Thailand
Ride
2006 Triumph R3
I've done the search to no avail to try and save some shame😅 goes like this I put a new sender unit in when renewing fuel lines now the question is when I filled up with gas the warning light goes out as normal but the gauge just twitches a little and doesn't move at all but if I turn the ignition on and off now and then the gauge will jump to full or 3/4 full when it's turned off and when turned on again it drops back to zero, just miffed as all was fine before other than the old sender being bent out of shape like me right now🤕 and giving a way off reading which I adapted to but it worked at least, I was thinking a faulty earth is there a way I can check the meter... Cheers
 
Sounds like a faulty connection somewhere.

You do know that the way to correct the accuracy of the gauge is to bend the arm of the float don't you? So the old sender unit may be okay.
 
Sounds like a faulty connection somewhere.

You do know that the way to correct the accuracy of the gauge is to bend the arm of the float don't you? So the old sender unit may be okay.
Thanks, I'd seen that yes but it was in pretty bad shape, I forgot to mention I've tried disconnecting the battery and I run a few tanks of fuel through it there was one instance when I thought it had woken up briefly when I looked again it was on empty was thinking of using the tank prop as dipstick
 
there is a thread about the clutch switch that if it remains closed AFTER U LET THE CLUTCH OUT THAT THE FUEL GAUGE (SOrry caps) will be screwy.
easy check try to start without pulling in clutch if it starts then the clutch switch is bad.
 
there is a thread about the clutch switch that if it remains closed AFTER U LET THE CLUTCH OUT THAT THE FUEL GAUGE (SOrry caps) will be screwy.
easy check try to start without pulling in clutch if it starts then the clutch switch is bad.
I did see that thanks it was an interesting read and built my hopes up for a moment... Turned out the switch is fine. I'm to the point of thinking the gauge has gone bad I've been looking on YouTube to check it with a volt meter but all the ones I could see on there had 2 wires there are 4 on that as you know?
 
I think that they all have 4 wires
Two for the fuel pump and two for the gauge info that goes to the ecu.
 
I'd really investigate that clutch switch.......
I'm thinkin you and Turbo got a point I've had trouble in the past with it the wires had been cut at some point and we're making contact I made good, now and the I have to feather the clutch out for it to start... When your in pain you will try anything I guess lol
Screenshot_20210320_193903_com.android.gallery3d.jpg
 
there is a thread about the clutch switch that if it remains closed AFTER U LET THE CLUTCH OUT THAT THE FUEL GAUGE (SOrry caps) will be screwy.
easy check try to start without pulling in clutch if it starts then the clutch switch is bad.
Sorry when I said the clutch switch is good I meant it doesn't start if it's not engaged, not thinking that's it can be abit quirky at times as I've stated thanks for pointing it out I shall get a new 1
 
Be careful either fixing your existing switch or even putting in a new one not to pinch the rubber bootie when installing. It's very easy to press the two leads together there by accident. Yours could (?) be very close to that point, but not quite. Once that happens your bike will start with the clutch out and your fuel gauge will mysteriously quit working.
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