Ignition Switch Replacement

[Captain Rich]

The ignition switch on my 06 Classic is getting ready to give up the ghost - turn the handle bar to the left or wiggle the wire and ZAP, she turns off...even if running (definitely a bad thing).

I've read about the solder and overheat problems, so I'm wondering: Is there anything repairable inside the switch connections? Or is a new switch the only answer? I'm off to the tool store to get a set of Star Sockets (looks like what Triumph used as a Security measure) so I can remove the switch and look inside but any hints/tips would be appreciated.

Wintering in FL so I don't have my full complement of tools (Murphy's Law at work) but removal looks straightforward. If the local dealer has the switch, all will be good, but if not I may have to ship it home when I leave next month depending on how long it takes to get a replacement switch - if this one can't be repaired.

 

[Gothlander]

If the solder melted you can re-solder it but if you don't fit relays it will happen again. Eventually you wont be able to repair it because the contacts melt the plastic.

 

[Gothlander]

You can just remove the bottom of the switch to repair it. From memory you remove a plastic cover and then unclip the base. Be careful you don't break the plastic.

 

[Gothlander]

Grey Wolf has a wiring diagram to hot-wire the plug with a switch. I used it when mine went south, it worked very well and got me to the Noosa Salvo and back.

 

[tdragger]

+1 on the relays. re-solder is only a temp fix.

If you get a new switch, it is possible to remove the upper half of the housing and bolt it to the bottom half of the new housing. This will allow you to continue with only one key. Worked for me.

 

[barbagris]

All this switch failure is starting to get me thinking about alternatives. Like this

 

[tmiller]

I wonder if the problem with the ignition switch is caused by the use of RoHS lead free solder? Does anyone know if that is what Triumph is using?

Lead free solder is mostly made of Tin, Sn. The RoHS rules was intended to keep lead out uf landfills. But what it has really done is shorten the service life of consumer electronics and greatly added to the waste issue. Tin based solder is a brittle alloy and does not hold up well to vibration.


Regards,
Tom

 

[Geek_Law]

Its pretty simplistic inside once you get it out. But its a total pain in the ass to remove the switch. I had to dremell slits into the security bolts and then finagle the bolts out like bad screws.

Anyway, consider contacting the dealer and seeing if they will work out a goodwill replacement on the part (not labor). Triumph did that for me. Then I just swapped out the new electrics with the old electrics, keeping the same keys, gave Triumph the dud, and mine has worked flawlessly ever since.

But I'd be real careful if you go anywhere. Once mine gave up the ghost it was just like you say. Turn the bars one way, she purrrs. Turn them another, nothing. Total blackness. It was disturbing, and I couldn't even drive the bike home. Had to tow it.

 

[tdragger]

just alway remember that you're dealing with British electronics. 'nuff said.

 

[Captain Rich]

Thanks for the tips. Got back from the tool store and the E6 Star Socket was the perfect fit for the two screws holding the Ignition Switch in place. Removed the switch and popped the End Cap off: Heavy White wire was desoldered so cleanly, it looked like it had never been soldered in the first place - the connecting stud had no trace of solder on it but the wire is showing signs of over-heating. Seems like I can solder it back on back on but it isn't clear if the over-heat is from the high resistance of a poor solder connection or if Headlamp draw is contributing, so...I'll resolder for now and look the get a replacement and a set of headlamp relays once I get home.



Hopefully, with no other 'gotchas' I'll be back on the road shortly - Thanks again guys.