Hesitation and back fireing at loww rpm

mexican

Living Legend
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
14,258
Location
Tulsa OK
Ride
2015 Rocket X
This bike i just got hesitates and i can;t figure it out, on take off from a stop it acts like it has a bad carburator, i give it gas and it just tries to go, give it more gas and back fires ,revs dont go up, all of a sudden it clears and i better be hanging on!!, any ideas??
 
Does it have good "new" gas in it ? If yes, my best guess would be the low tension leads on the coils need to be cleaned and re-crimped. Mine did that about a year ago, started running so bad I thought it wanted to go to the junk yard. Remembered reading about the coil leads. Couldn't believe that's all it was. I never get that lucky :)
 
Does it have good "new" gas in it ? If yes, my best guess would be the low tension leads on the coils need to be cleaned and re-crimped. Mine did that about a year ago, started running so bad I thought it wanted to go to the junk yard. Remembered reading about the coil leads. Couldn't believe that's all it was. I never get that lucky :)
What do they look like? according to Skip it has new 91 gas
 
When you raise the tank you'll see coils for the back two cylinders bolted to frame above the engine. Each will have 4 wires connected to it. The big ones goes to the spark plugs, the two little ones are what need to be re-crimped. Unplug them and squeeze them a little with pliers so they push back on kinda hard. Some people put dielectric grease on also. The third coil is right behind the headstock and kind of a beotch to get to, but not impossible.
 
What do they look like? according to Skip it has new 91 gas
Here is a shot of the ones on the right side of the bike Lupe the front coil is hard to get at but can be done from under the tank. Since the bike has not been road consistently in a while ( not a lot of good running on her) I would also wonder about the TPS and its setting (not sure if it has a old worn out one or not) but I would hook up to the ECU and check it plus look at the throttle bodies numbers to see if any are varying like you might have a vacuum line dry rotted. Does it have triple filters or did Skip leave hers stock?


anyway here is a shot of number two coil leads number three is right behind number two I would check clean and crimp them a wee bit with some needle nose pliers so they are pretty snug going back on. If you notice anything positive then you should consider looking at the front coil also.

coil lead wires.jpg


Disregard the SC plumbing so your side coil mounts will not be split into two sections :)

Hope this helps now it off to get ready for my weekend Menudo soup run :D
 
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Another option to dielectric grease would be something that actually enhances the connection, and doesn't just insulate/grease, ie Stabilant 22. I've been "painting" it on all my electrical connections now for the last year before connecting them up and so far so good.

Dielectric grease is fine for what it is but it doesn't really improve the connection any. Dielectric means it very specifically doesn't conduct electricity. Stabilant 22 is supposed to be able to "flip" between insulating and connective through some kind of dark magic when electrical current flows over it and (while it's hard to prove it does as things work great) it might be a better choice.

It's expensive as hell for the weight, but a tiny amount goes a very long way, and $50 isn't bank-breaking if it does help.
 
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Here is a shot of the ones on the right side of the bike Lupe the front coil is hard to get at but can be done from under the tank. Since the bike has not been road consistently in a while ( not a lot of good running on her) I would also wonder about the TPS and its setting (not sure if it has a old worn out one or not) but I would hook up to the ECU and check it plus look at the throttle bodies numbers to see if any are varying like you might have a vacuum line dry rotted. Does it have triple filters or did Skip leave hers stock?


anyway here is a shot of number two coil leads number three is right behind number two I would check clean and crimp them a wee bit with some needle nose pliers so they are pretty snug going back on. If you notice anything positive then you should consider looking at the front coil also.

coil lead wires.jpg


Disregard the SC plumbing so your side coil mounts will not be split into two sections :)

Hope this helps now it off to get ready for my weekend Menudo soup run :D
Thanks Scott, i just had a big bowl of menudo myself:) I will check all the connections and see what happens, it acts like a piece of debri obstructing the fuel or something funny like that
 
Take it out and give it a few WOT runs. It needs the cobwebs cleaned out, and to learn that its new master is a man. :confused::rolleyes::sneaky:
I have it at a shop fitting new tires, the old ones were weather rotted and i don't feel like getting killed today, then i will start looking into the rest of the issues, good thing he never had a problem with it:D
 
Another option to dielectric grease would be something that actually enhances the connection, and doesn't just insulate/grease, ie Stabilant 22. I've been "painting" it on all my electrical connections now for the last year before connecting them up and so far so good.

Dielectric grease is fine for what it is but it doesn't really improve the connection any. Dielectric means it very specifically doesn't conduct electricity. Stabilant 22 is supposed to be able to "flip" between insulating and connective through some kind of dark magic when electrical current flows over it and (while it's hard to prove it does as things work great) it might be a better choice.

It's expensive as hell for the weight, but a tiny amount goes a very long way, and $50 isn't bank-breaking if it does help.
yes, i need to get some of that grease, not just for that bike but for the rest of the fleet
 
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