FYI...Clutch cable length and Rivco Riser

[Bedifferent]

As you know, from my other post, I finally got the risers on my bike. On forum advice I got a Barnett clutch cable 1 1/2" longer. I put it on today and while it works, it is at the bare minimum for length and I'm sorry I did not do 2" or 2 1/2". I guess I should have checked a few other posts.

On another note, if you fully remove the cable actuator arm from the shaft to put the cable on...am I correct in assuming that nothing is going to be dislodged inside the clutch housing when the shaft drops or rotates down...correct? I know about the mark having to be lined up on the shaft. In my case I actually only pulled the arm off far enough to be able to insert the new cable end in the arm.

I also noticed that Barnett put that little plastic bearing sleeve on the actuator end of the cable but not the lever end like the factory cable had. I was told here on the forum that if I didn't have that in place it would be metal to metal contact and would damage the lever opening over time. Do I need to call Barnett?

 

[Tripps]

I did the same thing with my brake line, another 1/2"-1" would have been optimal.

 

[Joesmoe]

CAUTION:

Yes, you can pull out the actuator shaft, and disconnect the spring inside, and then you're looking at removing the clutch cover with it's 18 bolts, replacing the shredded paper gasket when it goes back on.

So remove the arm with great care, pushing in on the shaft as you remove the arm.

I found the Barnett 1-1/2" extra length Goldilocks perfect -- plenty of length and not too much.

No, there was no extra on the lever end.

 

[barbagris]

I also noticed that Barnett put that little plastic bearing sleeve on the actuator end of the cable but not the lever end like the factory cable had. I was told here on the forum that if I didn't have that in place it would be metal to metal contact and would damage the lever opening over time. Do I need to call Barnett?

If the Barnet nipple is a GOOD FIT and SMOOTH and round then it's not the same as an undersized one designed for use with a sleeve which are often less than round. Grease it up well though. Would not hurt to ask Barnett though. Venhill in the UK made my 4" over length one with Nylon sleeve both ends.

 

[Bedifferent]

I called Barnett and ordered another cable plus
2 1/2" this time. I will have to pay for it as expected. I checked the standard length clutch cable I ordered from them as a spare a long time ago..it "does" have the hard plastic sleeves on both ends.

I explain the situation about the missing sleeve. They will not take it back (special order), but I can send it back to them an they will repair it by putting the sleeve on and then return it to me. I'll wait till I get the new one on before getting an RA to return it.

Anyone looking for a gently used Barnett clutch cable plus 1 1/2". I will have one for sale in a couple of weeks at a reduced price. Everyone could use a spare. $60.93 + 12.85 shipping...$73.78 is what I paid. I'm thinking $55.00 with shipping in the lower 48 states. I guess that would be better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

 

[warp9.9]

As you know, from my other post, I finally got the risers on my bike. On forum advice I got a Barnett clutch cable 1 1/2" longer. I put it on today and while it works, it is at the bare minimum for length and I'm sorry I did not do 2" or 2 1/2". I guess I should have checked a few other posts.

On another note, if you fully remove the cable actuator arm from the shaft to put the cable on...am I correct in assuming that nothing is going to be dislodged inside the clutch housing when the shaft drops or rotates down...correct? I know about the mark having to be lined up on the shaft. In my case I actually only pulled the arm off far enough to be able to insert the new cable end in the arm.

I also noticed that Barnett put that little plastic bearing sleeve on the actuator end of the cable but not the lever end like the factory cable had. I was told here on the forum that if I didn't have that in place it would be metal to metal contact and would damage the lever opening over time. Do I need to call Barnett?

You can hold the liftershaft whe removing the actuator arm to put the cable on. I agree 2.5 extra inches will work fine.in looking at Paul's cable I'd say they have some quality stuff. If I ever need a longer one I will definetly use them.

 

[Bedifferent]

You can hold the liftershaft whe removing the actuator arm to put the cable on. I agree 2.5 extra inches will work fine.in looking at Paul's cable I'd say they have some quality stuff. If I ever need a longer one I will definetly use them.

I actually plastic cable tied the actuator up a bit so it wouldn't rotate down. I removed the bolt and was able to pry it about half way off the shaft to get enough clearance to slip the end into the slot and hole.

In the back of my mind it seem I recalled a horror story if it came all the way off and rotated down that was not a good thing. I thought something might disengage in the clutch housing. I do not need that kind of grief.

I found it strange that Paul said the shaft could be pulled out. How is it even possible that it is not retained inside? It felt a little spring loaded.

 

[Bedifferent]

CAUTION:

Yes, you can pull out the actuator shaft, and disconnect the spring inside, and then you're looking at removing the clutch cover with it's 18 bolts, replacing the shredded paper gasket when it goes back on.

So remove the arm with great care, pushing in on the shaft as you remove the arm.

I found the Barnett 1-1/2" extra length Goldilocks perfect -- plenty of length and not too much.

No, there was no extra on the lever end.

How can it be an 1 1/2" is perfect for you but, yet tight of me? You did keep it inside the tree clamp?

I took a look a there appears to be a rather thin potentially sharp edge of a bracket in the opening and I was worried about it cutting into the cable over time. Right where the cable rides at the edge of the opening.

 

[warp9.9]

I actually plastic cable tied the actuator up a bit so it wouldn't rotate down. I removed the bolt and was able to pry it about half way off the shaft to get enough clearance to slip the end into the slot and hole.

In the back of my mind it seem I recalled a horror story if it came all the way off and rotated down that was not a good thing. I thought something might disengage in the clutch housing. I do not need that kind of grief.

I found it strange that Paul said the shaft could be pulled out. How is it even possible that it is not retained inside? It felt a little spring loaded.

he watched me mess with it and yes you pull the lifter shaft out enough to grab it and keep it from rotating. You can not pull it all the way out unless the liftershaft or the lifter piece is broken. Yes been there done that.

 

[Joesmoe]

We need to meet up again, this time with both our Rockets present, and compare. All I can say.

And I wonder what you ordered -- mine was $125 shipped.