First things to do with my new Lonelec cable?

[mstraub72]

Good afternoon all,

While killing time watching snow STILL falling in Canada, dreaming of my bike while self-quarantining like the rest of the globe, I decided to grab one of those Lonelec cables for linking up to the bike. Bit of an impulse buy, since I didn't have a dedicated plan to use it at all. However, I remember when I was at the local dealer last summer, he mentioned that he "had the right cable" to hook up to my 2015 R3R (Ramair, stock exhaust, stock tune) to do something with the secondaries to get more power, like the 2016+ models.

That brings up a few questions, since I honestly don't know the differences between the year models.

First, I have heard legend that the newer 2016+ models had something disabled in software that was enabled in earlier bikes, that reduced the power a little on the earlier models...an intentional safety mod they applied at the factory to rein in this beast. While he didn't get into specifics, it sounded like you could just sync up with the ECU and switch that feature off, giving you the full grunt of the newer models. (Again, to be clear, not talking about the NEW new ones, the 2.5 litre rigs...just the 2016+ 2.3l models). Is this true, and if so, is this something that can be triggered via TuneECU or something similar with the Lonelec cable? And what are up and downsides to doing this? Does it ruin the already thirsty fuel economy in favor of a few more HP? Worth it in your opinion?

And secondly, I have the Ramair installed for a year now, and only did that 12min tune afterwards as per instructions. Everything else is stock besides the tires...should I bother firing in a tune?

And lastly, what other "Top 10 Things to Do With Your New Cable!" advice do you all have?

Thanks, and I hope everyone's staying safe and healthy out there.

 

[EwoutR3]

Hi, I thought 2013 was the year the derestricted the beast but I could be wrong. That is one of the things you can check with the cable (and TuneECU, look at "2nd throttle). You can set all the values to 100, opening them up completely.
You can adjust the speed, to make 100km/h really 100 km/h. I read it is - 6%, I know -3% is not enough.
Top speed can be set higher, it will be 194km/h now? (mine it was)
Checking throttle balance is a nice feature, with RAM's installed worthwhile to check and adjust easily.
I tried another mapping (Opti-Penner) but I didn't like the throttle respons, so I loaded the 20355 back in the ECU. (mine is completely stock by the way).
I just opened the 2nd throttle completely. In a few hours I will have some time to ride the Rocket so no experience with that yet.
Have fun!

 

[tribal]

Now is the time to get accustomed to TuneECU.
It doesn't sound like you physically removed the butterfly plates but you can derestrict it by setting the secondary throttle values to 100 as per EwoutR3.
Most custom maps are for different combinations of intake & exhaust (and possibly engine) mods.
OEM_Tune_20773 in the Resources section would be the one for you unless you want to put on a new exhaust before Spring to
really get the full potential of the motor.
You can look at others for comparison but if you don't have similar mods I wouldn't load them on the bike as you will run too rich or too lean...

Just upload the one on your bike first with TuneECU and save it to your laptop and you can always go back to it...
Top 10?
You can bump up the rev limit if you're comfortable and see a need for that.
Run through the diagnostics so you're comfortable doing the tests.
You can eliminate the decel popping associated with aftermarket silencers.
You can turn down the temperature that the fan kicks on a few degrees.
Impress your friends with advanced technological skills!

Just an FYI that if you adjust the speedometer to be correct then your odometer will be the same percentage off.

 

[Gregger]

It was mid 2013 when they derestricted the secondaries so your model should already be set up this way. Rather than play with the speedometer settings, I installed an Excedra Max 240/55 R16 rear tire which corrects the speedo error and improves handling and tire life immensely over the Metzler. Another recommendation is to lower the rad fan turn on temp a few degrees.

@tribal is right regarding the 20773 map for a stock unit but many have used the 20776 map (for TORS) in the stock setting because the bike runs so lean. You could try it for sh_ts and giggles. Easy to swap maps for test purposes.

 

[Broadside]

Hi mistraub, ive a 2013 roadster and its unrestricted from stock , I've been thinking of a lonelec cable as I have some tors and ramair to put on but I'm cautious of doing the tune ecu as I'm not savvy with that sort of thing but I have a dyno shop 5 miles away but expensive ?

 

[tribal]

Interesting, I never happened to look at the secondaries settings on the OEM 20773 or 20776 maps.
Both have the same <100 values in 4th & 5th gears at high RPM.
I see that the Claviger and Hanso maps for 2014+ R3R's have all cells set to 100 (ie. fully opened butterflies).
It was probably discussed back in the day but I didn't go look for prior posts on why Triumph would do this.

 

[Gregger]

It's interesting. Triumph must have thought it important to add this to the higher RPM ranges in 4th and 5th but removed the <100% on the first 3 gears in the lower RPM ranges after mid 2013. If they didn't need it, they could have procured throttle bodies without the secondary throttle plates, secondary TPS sensor and wiring along with the programming. A manufacturing cost saving.

I'm guessing enabling the secondary plates in the first 3 gears was to restrict performance as a safety concern in the earlier models (which they got rid of in later models)???? As to why they left the secondaries active in 4th and 5th.... probably to maintain torque???? Just a guess (I set all mine to 100%).

 

[Jimbo74]

Now is the time to get accustomed to TuneECU.
It doesn't sound like you physically removed the butterfly plates but you can derestrict it by setting the secondary throttle values to 100 as per EwoutR3.
Most custom maps are for different combinations of intake & exhaust (and possibly engine) mods.
OEM_Tune_20773 in the Resources section would be the one for you unless you want to put on a new exhaust before Spring to
really get the full potential of the motor.
You can look at others for comparison but if you don't have similar mods I wouldn't load them on the bike as you will run too rich or too lean...

Just upload the one on your bike first with TuneECU and save it to your laptop and you can always go back to it...
Top 10?
You can bump up the rev limit if you're comfortable and see a need for that.
Run through the diagnostics so you're comfortable doing the tests.
You can eliminate the decel popping associated with aftermarket silencers.
You can turn down the temperature that the fan kicks on a few degrees.
Impress your friends with advanced technological skills!

Just an FYI that if you adjust the speedometer to be correct then your odometer will be the same percentage off.

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, but it’s very similar to the answers I am also seeking.
I have a 2015 Roadster. I’ve recently fitted a K&N and Dave Platt Outlaw pipes. It’s running slightly lean and pops on decelerating. I’ve just got a Lonelec cable and downloaded the windows version of Tune ECU hoping to find a more suitable map. Penner has a map that seems to be the closest. Does anybody know if there would be one better suited? And how do you use Tune ECU to stop the deceleration popping, or is that just part of the mapping?

thanks in advance

Jimbo.

 

[Broadside]

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, but it’s very similar to the answers I am also seeking.
I have a 2015 Roadster. I’ve recently fitted a K&N and Dave Platt Outlaw pipes. It’s running slightly lean and pops on decelerating. I’ve just got a Lonelec cable and downloaded the windows version of Tune ECU hoping to find a more suitable map. Penner has a map that seems to be the closest. Does anybody know if there would be one better suited? And how do you use Tune ECU to stop the deceleration popping, or is that just part of the mapping?

thanks in advance

Jimbo.

Hi Jimbo , I have just used tune ecu for the first time on android tho , and it was straight forward with help from the boys on this forum I have ramair and tors on and used 20776 3rd gen Hanso tune and no popping whatsoever it's great, just download your tune first , I chose android tune ecu because the windows looked too complicated, the map stops the popping .

 

[Kojack1970]

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, but it’s very similar to the answers I am also seeking.
I have a 2015 Roadster. I’ve recently fitted a K&N and Dave Platt Outlaw pipes. It’s running slightly lean and pops on decelerating. I’ve just got a Lonelec cable and downloaded the windows version of Tune ECU hoping to find a more suitable map. Penner has a map that seems to be the closest. Does anybody know if there would be one better suited? And how do you use Tune ECU to stop the deceleration popping, or is that just part of the mapping?

thanks in advance

Jimbo.

I don't think you'll ever fully get rid of all the decel pops. just minimize it. When I loaded the Hanso Roadster 2014+ tune it cut the popping significantly, maybe 80%, but I still get pops and I'm fine with that because it doesn't really bother me.