Loatmead

.020 Over
Joined
Dec 30, 2020
Messages
50
Location
Devon
Ride
Triumph rocket 3r
Morning all just wandering if any GL5 oil for the final drive is better than any other. Had my bike in for her 600mile service the other day and they assured me that it had been changed but I’m not so sure as on the invoice it states every thing else, filter, oil ect but when it comes to final drive it states “check and lube chain” wtf.
 
As long as the oil that you get is a 75W/90, fully synthetic hypoid oil that is GL5 spec, it shouldn't make any difference. If you want peace of mind get the Castrol SAF-XO that they recommend. You can buy the Castrol from Opie oils, but it has been re-named, castrol-transmax-axle-long-life-75w-90-fully-synthetic-rear-axle-fluid.
 
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It's about doing it yourself, we are sure it's done but as long as the bike is guaranteed ...
I always check after having been to do my maintenance.
On my last review it was easy they put the motul 7100 and it is red in color, so certain that it did the job, on the other hand always the problem for the control of the level (see post "engine oil level" ) www.r3owners.net/threads/engine-oil-level.46540/#post-746461

For the final drive, right motorcycle level or on the side stand?Hot or cold?
nothing on the manual ...
 
I have used Mobil 1 75/90 full syn for 14 years and 50,000 miles. Since it only takes about 5 to 6 ounces, I change mine every spring.
This spring I added a half ounce of Johnsen's Engine Stop Leak seal conditioner due to the age. I have been using this stuff since January of 2011 and it really works for me in my cars.
 
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ok avec ça, mais pour ce control ou remplacement tu fais moto droite ou sur la béquille latéral?
 
It's about doing it yourself, we are sure it's done but as long as the bike is guaranteed ...
I always check after having been to do my maintenance.
On my last review it was easy they put the motul 7100 and it is red in color, so certain that it did the job, on the other hand always the problem for the control of the level (see post "engine oil level" ) www.r3owners.net/threads/engine-oil-level.46540/#post-746461

For the final drive, right motorcycle level or on the side stand?Hot or cold?
nothing on the manual ...

On my old rocket if i have a helper i fill it standing up if not i fill it on the stand. I fill cold there is not enough gear oil to expand and cause probs.
I guess if u wanted to work on a hot rocket it probably would not hurt.
 
I have used Mobil 1 75/90 full syn for 14 years and 50,000 miles. Since it only takes about 5 to 6 ounces, I change mine every spring.
This spring I added a half ounce of Johnsen's Engine Stop Leak seal conditioner due to the age. I have been using this stuff since January of 2011 and it really works for me in my cars.

Just my opinion
Never use anykind of sealer/conditioner. It causes seals to to expands and ruins them.
Most oil say they have every thing that they need and not to use additives.
I recomend to drain and add new fluids.
If u were 800 miles away from home that might b worth a try and u know u r going to have to fix anyway
 
You know I "heard" that too and give it consideration for many years before the need for trying something in January of 2011 when the new to me 2000 Porsche Boxster S I purchased in Scottsdale, AZ. began leaking at the rear main seal after the 1000 mile drive home. Not wanting to tear it down right away, I tried the Johnsen's. Low and behold the leaking stopped and now 10 years and 57,000 miles later no leak. I am not convinced the old wives tale about expanding and ruining the seal is true when using this Johnsen's product. Can't speak to other product used for this purpose. I just know how well the Johnsen's works. It goes in all my cars with over 100,000 miles or are over 10 years old. No leaks in all the years of use. All I can say is try the Johnsen's for yourself. If a seal is already leaking you have nothing to lose.
 
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