Final drive unit

[Mrbuickstage1]

Wondering if a final drive unit off a 2011-18 Off a roadster would work on my 2007 classic Standard dealer stated mine is gone no noise are issues just rusty shaft coupling Any suggestion can’t see spending $$$$
ebay new $899
any info would be greatly appreciated I believe my unit is good dealer might Be baiting me idk
never had any issues

 

[tribal]

My understanding is that they are different part numbers and not interchangeable. Someone smart may know if that's true and why.

2004-2010
1: DRIVE UNIT,FINAL,DRAINED T1270001
1 On Backorder. None available. $2,169.65 $2,169.65

2011-2018
1: DRIVE UNIT,FINAL,87DEGREE,BLK T1275000 Roadster only
1 On Backorder. None available. $956.89 $956.89

I see several used Touring Final Drives out there but those have yet a different part number for 2008-2016 R3T's and I don't think they work with the standard 2004-2010's.

1:

DRIVE UNIT,FINAL,90 DEGREE T1272050

1

On Backorder. None available. Notify me when this item becomes available.

$1,830.24

$1,830.24

I would clean and lube yours and make sure it is actually failing then try to locate a used T1270001 unit. I paid $550 for mine 10 years ago.
Note that there is a risk that you could get one of the shoddy recalled ones if dealing with an immoral seller.
Best to buy from a reputable seller who can give you at least some indication it came off a running bike.

What are the exact symptoms??

 

[bebsy]

Wondering if a final drive unit off a 2011-18 Off a roadster would work on my 2007 classic Standard dealer stated mine is gone no noise are issues just rusty shaft coupling Any suggestion can’t see spending $$$$
ebay new $899
any info would be greatly appreciated I believe my unit is good dealer might Be baiting me idk
never had any issues

Dried out moly grease can leave a rusty impression, if the splines check out ok and there's no other problem a clean and fresh lube and off you go, the seal had gone in mine and was leaking slightly which requires abit more elbow grease but can be done if you have the tools

 

[Kevin frazier]

@bebsy how big was the press you had to use to open that can.

 

[bebsy]

@bebsy how big was the press you had to use to open that can.

It was a battered home made press I used I did ask and 3 tonne was relayed via broken English as for the specifics I really couldn't say alls I know is it struggled

 

[TURBO200R4]

i think that the early was silver and the roadsters were black.
show us pics of the drive shaft spline and the spline on the diff

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

The "rusty" look is not rust. It is the factory molly. Clean it up and take some photos. Post here so we can see them well.

 

[warp9.9]

You could use that roadster one but you will need the driveshaft to it. 07 has the smaller diameter spline. I would listen to these guys and clean it off and get a better look first. And as with all rockets if you pull it off and grease with moly grease it evertime you get a new tire put on. I change the gear lube then to.
Note I'm talking motorcycle tires noth automobile tires.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Warp can you show us the different size splines ?

 

[kcc11]

If I'm not mistaking. One of the big improvements to the Roadsters was the driveshaft and rear differential was 20% larger than the older models.

I would inspect the splines and just remove any dirt with a old tooth brush and then add more moly lube. Moly lubes are dry and just use paste to mix it with so it can be applied to the parts. In time the moly gets imbedded in to the metal and the liquid part will dry out leaving the moly behind. So the rust that you see is mostly dried moly lube. With a little metal. I have not cleaned the splines on my 05' for I don't know how long. Replaced the rear due to the pinon seals liking and had wear on both splines. Replace the driveshaft about a year later due to vibration that was the front u joint dried out and binding. I just keep adding more moly when apart.