F6C

.040 Over
Joined
Jun 8, 2020
Messages
71
Ride
R3 GT
I find that the method of checking the oil level is not easy. On the motorcycle log, side stand, cold engine, run 1mn30 without accelerating, stop then check 3mn later. Do you control like that? or some other way?
 
TL;DR: either check as told, or don't check and wait for the oil pressure warning. Anything in between is also not checking, but with guaranteed additional time loss.

All the bikes I owned (all "modern" EFIs) had such a similar process (to be checked cold, but actually means run idle a bit, stop and wait before checking).
I actually find this one easier, because they do not require us to get the bike straight up to check; or to check over a small window down there you cannot see except on sunny days when bike is out with proper lighting orientation, but still you will have to crawl to try - the best being those that requires both, which I'm still trying to find a practical way to do.

If you don't do as told (run idle a bit, stop and wait before checking), you take the risk having an oil level showing higher than what it actually is available, which is definitely not something you want (believing it's OK where it's not.. you'd be better not checking at all, which is also the shortest option).
I believe they do not design such processes just to piss us off: they try to avoid an engine failure risk falling on our own judgement and liquids dynamics knowledge. Fair enough for a a 2,5L engine of that sort; I am personally not able to compensate for oil temperature, pressure and pump circuitry losses when reading a dipstick full cold. Some might (they have an opportunity to reconsider their life choices if they're not astronauts already).
 
TL;DR: either check as told, or don't check and wait for the oil pressure warning. Anything in between is also not checking, but with guaranteed additional time loss.

All the bikes I owned (all "modern" EFIs) had such a similar process (to be checked cold, but actually means run idle a bit, stop and wait before checking).
I actually find this one easier, because they do not require us to get the bike straight up to check; or to check over a small window down there you cannot see except on sunny days when bike is out with proper lighting orientation, but still you will have to crawl to try - the best being those that requires both, which I'm still trying to find a practical way to do.

If you don't do as told (run idle a bit, stop and wait before checking), you take the risk having an oil level showing higher than what it actually is available, which is definitely not something you want (believing it's OK where it's not.. you'd be better not checking at all, which is also the shortest option).
I believe they do not design such processes just to piss us off: they try to avoid an engine failure risk falling on our own judgement and liquids dynamics knowledge. Fair enough for a a 2,5L engine of that sort; I am personally not able to compensate for oil temperature, pressure and pump circuitry losses when reading a dipstick full cold. Some might (they have an opportunity to reconsider their life choices if they're not astronauts already).


just curious how much does it vary from checking it running to your way of checking it?
 
Thank you for your answers.
I have always done the basic of the usual checks whether for mechanical or safety, coolant, oils, brakes and tire pressures.
Not every time but I still do it from time to time (and frankly the reading of this engine oil level is never the same) always with the manual method.
I have already compared with other 2.5, not one has the same level under the same conditions! some well above the maximum level and others below the minimum.

For the oil pressure warning light, it will indicate a low pressure problem but will never indicate if you have too much oil, and both are not good.
Even at the Triumph garage they have a hard time really explaining ... The revision method for them is 5.2 capacity, so they put 5.2

I would like to find an efficient reliable means for this control. This post can lead us to compare our different results (using the manual)

Level ground,
motorcycle on the stand,
start 1mn30 without accelerating,
check after 3 minutes
 
I keep reading that too oil is bad. That is true on a wet sump as it can cause power losses and be foamed by crankshaft. On a dry sump other than blowing it out of tank what is downside of overfilling?
 
Ygransom a dit:
what is downside of overfilling?

I don't know it's too technical for me but there must be some reason otherwise there wouldn't be a control gauge?
 
Oider motors and automatic transmissions usually have a cold mark that u try to bring the oil/atf to that level (room temp and below) then as the motor/trans heats up the oil/atf it expands and rises on the stick depending on temp and the amount of quarts sometimes over the hot range.

Informa5ion on some of the newer
Automatic transmissions.
They claim that u have to have a tool
(A very long stick and the end of the stick starts at 0mm and goes to
100 mm) so u can measurer the atf
Now they tell u that you must have a scanner to check the fluid.however what they do not tell u is the scanner
is reading tempature of the trans.
So to get around this we use a thermal gun to see the temp of the trans(of coarse we could use a scanner) sumed up cold 20 to 30 mm
cold and 40 mm to 60mm hot. (average trans)
Just my opinion
I think that triumph is trying to tell u to run a certain amount of time to reach a certain temp and tell u to check the oil then at that temp and should be at the marks on the stick.
Some one with a thermal gun can find out what that temp is then just start and let it run till it gets to that temp then correct the level and then u could check it running on stand.
I know there will be a few that dont believe me but if i am wrong please explain why so i can (if nessary) change my thinking.
Ygransom a dit:
what is downside of overfilling?

I don't know it's too technical for me but there must be some reason otherwise there wouldn't be a control gauge?

On automatic transmission the old wifes tale was that it would ruin the front seal u dont hear that much any more.
Gm decided to put a small went tube in their trans so what happen is when over filled the fluid get into the turning parts gets airated and the tube aimed at the catalitic convertor with atf fine spray would burst into flames. Gm cured the problem they did not have by putting a hose on the vent and running it to the other side
Over filling the motorcycles the problem that there would be is it is going to come out of that oil tank
On the 2020 i asume it will go into a place that stores it till it is urned it the motor. On the early models i am guessing that it might come out and get on to the rear tire/rear brakes.
Any way on mine i make sure it is never over about 3/8 inches above the full mark. If it is u can drain a little or use a clear hose to syphone lol.
If someone would volenteir to overfill thier early rocket we could find out lol
 
These days, I am riding every day and this is what I saw yesterday before a ride:

Stick without oil
IMG_1899.jpg

Bike on kickstand, handlebar turned left. Cold engine without any run. Oil level around 1" (25 -26 mm).
IMG_1900.jpg

Bike on kickstand, handlebar turned left. From cold, engine at idle during 75 seconds then 180 seconds before oil measurement. Oil level around 1" (25 - 26 mm)
IMG_1903.jpg

Oil level from the bottom of the stick is around 1" (25 - 26 mm) and there is less than 1/16" (1.6 mm) difference regarding oil level between picture 2 and 3.
It is very difficult to see on the pictures but my eyes are working 😳.
 
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