DO YOU OUTRIDE YOUR HEADLIGHTS?

1olbull

Riding Motor Since 1950
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
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23,313
Location
Tacoma, WA
Ride
2012 R3R "Kong" - 2011 R3R "YurMama"
I offer this only in hope of perhaps helping my fellow Rocket riders gain an improved understanding of the tremendous dangers of night riding.

Fred's recent deer crash hit me pretty hard and I have also had a coupe real close near disasters at speed similar to Fred's incident. I am sure youse have experienced similar brown streak events.

Motor riders are WAY more likely to over ride their headlights than are cage drivers because they have INFERIOR headlights compared to cages!

Once detecting an object in your path at night you will need about 2 seconds or longer to react and start to apply your brakes or swerve. 2 seconds at 60 mph is 176 feet you continue toward a hazard in front of you BEFORE you can even apply your brakes of swerve. Then there is an additional 200 feet and 5 seconds or more (depending on your braking skill level) before you can stop and avoid a crash.

This is a minimum of 376 feet for you to stop! There are NO headlights that will sufficiently allow you to see and recognize a hazard in the roadway that far away!!!


Some additional information:


Watt is a measurement of power and/or how much drain there will be on the battery. Watt has nothing to do with the quantity or measurement of light and more to do with the design of the light source.

Lumen measurements are somewhat misleading and are frequently used to make a commercial light source seem to be more than it is in actuality. Lumen is a technical measurement of the luminous flux within a specific sized sphere used in a controlled environment that is spread over 1 square meter. 1,000 lumen per square meter equals 1,000 lux.

Lux is the real world nitty-gritty measurement of luminous flux from a light source falling upon an object. The published lux amount for a light source is usually measured at just a 1 meter distance. The lux at other various distances are then calculated from that measurement by utilizing the inverse square formula.

OEM motorcycle headlights are ONLY about half as effective as car headlights!

Real world human factors is what drives my interest in headlights and not how light sources are designed or built. I shall leave that to the head-throbbers like our GrayBeard @ Barbagris.

Measurements of the actual light emitted from a source necessary to illuminate a person, animal or object enough to be recognized by a motorist (3.2 lux) is what I pursue. Many headlights of cars (mostly) and some of motorcycles have been measured. From these perimeter measurements a scale graph can be produced that depicts the actual area ahead of a vehicle that a driver can see well enough to detect, identify, decide and respond to the hazard in the roadway.

This is a very basic explanation as there are many other factors to be considered as well, such as contrast, movement, direction, ambient light and location within the beam.

I offer this only to assist others in improving their understanding of lights regarding a driver’s very limited ability to perceive and then successfully react to a hazard in the roadway while riding at night.
 
This is a minimum of 376 feet for you to stop! There are NO headlights that will sufficiently allow you to see and recognize a hazard in the roadway that far away!!!
100m ish.

On dip - I 100% agree. Last year visiting my mum - the only way to really tramp-on in the new forest on the R3 was lots of extra lux. I don't get to use main enough to have an opinion. With both Adaptive on main plus the 6150's subjectively I'd say it's possible, but borderline.

PLUS although 3.2lux is the average - I'll bet many of us greyingbeards have worse nocturnal perception - I know mine has worsened. My pupils no longer dilate past 5 or 6mm whereas they used to get to past 8mm. Equally they wont close down to 1.7mm which they did before - so I am more and more dependant of sunglasses. Also I am very sensitive (headaches) to the blue end of the spectrum - but oddly have massive issues focusing on blue light sources.

Deer I have limited experience of - (our danger is wild boar) - Plus it has so far been in the LandRover - BUT ime they do not see Halogen based lamps as well as blue-white LED. They are supposedly sensitive to UV light. 10000-12000K lights might help?

I have found here that they (deer) are less likely to jump out at the last minute if the lights are on DIP (this I have also heard from local gamekeepers and the Guardia Civil who go after poachers) - I think due to the extra lateral "cut-off" light exiting at their eye-height. Was surprised by one last year that I did not see on main - had to dip for oncoming traffic and there was the deer facing the road but starting back.

Watts/Lumens - That is a whole new can of worms. Most claims (esp LED) are EXTREMELY optimistic if not outright impossible.
 
That is why I always add some narrow 10 to 15 degree LED spots, the ones I had on the Rocket were 25 watt single Cree 10 degree spots that gave and additional 200metre/600ft of light for spotting the wildlife well of in the distance, they also shred plenty of light off to the sides.
While that is good Roos and I am sure Deers don't always play by the rules and come out at the last second so you are still not always guaranteed of seeing them
The ones I am looking at are rated at 1 lume at 245 metres and give a slightly wider 15 degree
 
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@HansO
M8,
No offense intended, but at night there is just no way your lights (1, 2, 4 or 6) can provide enough light for you to discern a roo or deer in your path on a roadway at 200 meters (640 feet).

They may cast enough light to barely register on an incident meter, but not enough to discern anything.

Curious about the "1 lume at 250 meter" lights you mentioned. Could you give me a name and model of these?
 
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MCX25 LED MOTORCYCLE DRIVING SPOT LIGHT I am running a set of their LED headlight conversion globes after having bought some cheapies that while they gave a lot of light it was badly focussed with a piss poor hi beam, the Stedi LED conversion are a great well focussed beam with a more than reasonable hi beam
 
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Hans - They have fairly deep reflectors which is a plus - but whilst I don't know that particular light - the technology is dated.

I'm not saying you should rush out and buy a set of adaptive (esp not for the Explorer ;) ) but I am sure you can find better out there.

That said familiarity and brand confidence DO MATTER. :thumbsup:
 
M8,
I did find that MCX25. Their spec was 1 lux at that long distance, which is meaningless because you won't dis c ern anything in 1 lux. Check the distance at the 10 lux on the graph. Way more realistic.
 
@scot in exile
Good acronym.
We refer to it as perception - response time which is usually then followed by braking.
Very similar.
 
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