I would be VERY cautious about trying to pull an m-unit into the schematic for anything with a modern ECU. There are masses of components that the ECU requires and also feeds. Just fitted an M-unit to an older bike and yes! it's a fine thing. But tie it into an R3's electrics is something I would rather not even try.
Following the stock wiring diagram and ensuring anything that only interacts with the ECU now only reacts with the ECU after installation of the m.unit (essentially a swap of the fuse panel) feels like a complex thing to attempt, but when you consider that it's just the same act of switching (1) wire completed over and over and over, this is not a difficult swap to make. I'm going to do it the same way we estimate electrical systems in buildings; eat the elephant one bite at a time. <3 TY for the heads up though, and I will definitely be reaching out to you when I burn both the m.unit and the ECU in a blaze of hubris. lol
What type of R/R are you replacing with?
Are these genuine Shindengen parts or EBay clones of OEM?
Ebay is flooded with these clones and they are just crap - price is good indicator, if less than about $120, it is most likely a clone. Because they are half the price of genuine replacement does not make them a bargain
They are genuine (albeit used) Shindengen parts, purchased from eBay. Both that I have purchased have the same dirty outline left by the mounting plate above the unit that my stock one has. While they are used, Occam's razor says that there is a reason (3) of them have failed (within 15 minutes of runtime).
Please validate your method of stator check:
What you want to do is check the resistance (isolation actually) between the stator and ground - measure between any ONE of the three terminals to engine ground (NOT pin to pin which will ALWAYS read virtual short whether good or bad and why you only need to measure ONE pin to ground for isolation test) - this should NOT be short (zero ohms) and should measure open (infinite resistance)
That is the only stator test you need to do and is pretty much an absolute pass/fail test.
If the stator is good, then if you're burning up regulators, would have to suggest you are probably buying a poor quality product.
I can confirm that this is how I checked for isolation, but per my response to the first part of your reply, it's not from having purchased a poor-quality product.
Do a search on the board for "Shingdegen SH847AA". This is a R/R that can replace the stock R/R.
It's something I'm considering, but I won't be making the change until I find what is burning my R/Rs.
I appreciate everyone's input, but there is something causing failure that is not related to the construction of the device.
I have confirmed my coils function as intended, but do not have a scope so I can't confirm there's no high voltage backfeeding into the 12v rail feeding them. That is one thing that COULD kill the R/R unit.
I will be pulling the main fuse (CKT 11) while it's running. It SHOULD die immediately, since the R/R is bad. If it doesn't die immediately it indicates the coils and ECU are getting power from somewhere that isn't where it's supposed to be (indication that someone rewired the bike and did it like someone who doesn't know how electricity works would do it).
Once I replace the R/R again I'll start it up and pull the fuse, and it will run like that with the starter and battery disconnected until the R/R dies. If it just straight up doesn't die, that means the problem is with the Battery or starter. My money is currently on the starter drawing power, leading the shunting mosfets in the rectifier to just overwork and burn.
Any thoughts?
