Clutch cable concern 2015R3T

Eric R.

Supercharged
Joined
Sep 10, 2015
Messages
219
Location
Palmer, MA
Ride
2015 Rocket 3 Touring
Hey guys, I recently installed the jack be quick 1 1/4” handlebar spacers for my r3t. I am very happy with them but I have noticed that when I turn the bars completely to the right my clutch cable gets pulled tight, and it doesn’t engage properly. For example, if I am turning around in my driveway and have to feather the clutch, it isn’t working like usual and my bike kind of lurches forward when the clutch grabs.
I think it’s simply because the bike is pulling tight on the cable while turning right. Turning left is fine.
My question is should I reroute the cable to make it a looser loop, which I guess would mean disconnecting it from the lever and pulling it out of the guide slot? I really don’t want to do this. Or, is it possible to replace the cable with one that’s maybe two inches longer? I’m not sure how hard of a job that would be, and the needed adjustments afterwards.
I would appreciate any advice before I bring it into the shop.
Thanks Eric
 
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You should replace the clutch cable that is 1 1/2 to 2 inches longer.
 
Hey guys, I recently installed the jack be quick 1 1/4” handlebar spacers for my r3t. I am very happy with them but I have noticed that when I turn the bars completely to the right my clutch cable gets pulled tight, and it doesn’t engage properly. For example, if I am turning around in my driveway and have to feather the clutch, it isn’t working like usual and my bike kind of lurches forward when the clutch grabs.
I think it’s simply because the bike is pulling tight on the cable while turning right. Turning left is fine.
My question is should I reroute the cable to make it a looser loop, which I guess would mean disconnecting it from the lever and pulling it out of the guide slot? I really don’t want to do this. Or, is it possible to replace the cable with one that’s maybe two inches longer? I’m not sure how hard of a job that would be, and the needed adjustments afterwards.
I would appreciate any advice before I bring it into the shop.
Thanks Eric
You will get plenty help to do this job, order that cable that was posted and put it on, plug and play style, warp and others will see this and dial you in on gap setting at lever, warp pulls cable sheath at lever and gets gap desired anyway you got this
 
Thanks for the help so far. I did have a follow up question. I did some searching on this subject, and read about some internal spring that can be detached accidentally while working on the cable at the engine end.
And I read the service manual pertaining to replacing the cable, and they made no mention of this spring being part of the cable changing process.
Can you simply free up the engine end of the cable with the adjusters, and then the bar end and remove the cable without messing with the pivoting arm and that spring?
If that's all there is, I think I can handle doing it myself. I certainly do not want to remove that engine cover just to change my cable.
Thanks in advance for any help, and I appreciate it, Eric
 
Look up threads on detent springs, look up @warp9.9 threads and you’ll find a bunch of info. The book I have doesn’t show a touring @idk i believe has a book you can open and look at his for removal, same procedure just a different look, the actuating arm is wound and does have alignment marks to note.
 
Look up threads on detent springs, look up @warp9.9 threads and you’ll find a bunch of info. The book I have doesn’t show a touring @idk i believe has a book you can open and look at his for removal, same procedure just a different look, the actuating arm is wound and does have alignment marks to note.
Cover comes off for detent spring but not for cable alone
 
Thanks for the help so far. I did have a follow up question. I did some searching on this subject, and read about some internal spring that can be detached accidentally while working on the cable at the engine end.
And I read the service manual pertaining to replacing the cable, and they made no mention of this spring being part of the cable changing process.
Can you simply free up the engine end of the cable with the adjusters, and then the bar end and remove the cable without messing with the pivoting arm and that spring?
If that's all there is, I think I can handle doing it myself. I certainly do not want to remove that engine cover just to change my cable.
Thanks in advance for any help, and I appreciate it, Eric
Thats a false rumor the only spring inside is the liftershaft return spring. Which will not come off changing the cable you can follow the books instructions but its not a hadr thing to do. You can even pull the arm off the lifter shaft. It has a alignment mark and the shaft has a punch mark for alingment.
 
Thats a false rumor the only spring inside is the liftershaft return spring. Which will not come off changing the cable you can follow the books instructions but its not a hadr thing to do. You can even pull the arm off the lifter shaft. It has a alignment mark and the shaft has a punch mark for alingment.

I thought @Joesmoe had a issue replacing his clutch cable and had to take the clutch apart to fix it?
 
Look up threads on detent springs, look up @warp9.9 threads and you’ll find a bunch of info. The book I have doesn’t show a touring @idk i believe has a book you can open and look at his for removal, same procedure just a different look, the actuating arm is wound and does have alignment marks to note.
Yes but its wound prior to installing the cover while your scooping up the lifter piece. It will not unwind while the cover is still bolted up.
 
Thanks for the help so far. I did have a follow up question. I did some searching on this subject, and read about some internal spring that can be detached accidentally while working on the cable at the engine end.
And I read the service manual pertaining to replacing the cable, and they made no mention of this spring being part of the cable changing process.
Can you simply free up the engine end of the cable with the adjusters, and then the bar end and remove the cable without messing with the pivoting arm and that spring?
If that's all there is, I think I can handle doing it myself. I certainly do not want to remove that engine cover just to change my cable.
Thanks in advance for any help, and I appreciate it, Eric

I originally re-routed the original cable inside the handle bars, through the black cover. That worked okay (Rivco Risers). After about a year I noticed the cable casing getting a bit chaffed where it rubbed in there.
So I went with the Barnett Cable as noted by the other fine folks on here already. I'm much happier with it routed where it was originally.

I did it myself with no problems. If I recall, the shift lever coming out of the engine dropped when the cable was removed, but I have had no problems at all. Just took a bit of a tug to get the end plug of the bare cable in it's slot. I nicked the nylon sheath on the cable doing that so be careful there. Glad the nick was in a place that does not enter the cable housing.

I took the left Radiator trim off to get to the bottom adjustments.

Pics:
Before. Original cable rerouted,
IMG_1496.JPG



Cable removed. You can see the position of the shift arm. Let it off easy. Should be fine.
IMG_1501.JPG



New cable. My nick is just under/below the grease at the end of the nylon sheath. Careful while squeezing it through the slot that holds the thread part of the lower adjustment bolt. That little black part between the nuts.
IMG_1507.JPG


All done. (I bought a +2", but I think I'd go +1 1/2" if I did it again. That is also the Platinum style, way bright. I'd do the stainless next time, too, if not just black)

Have fun!
IMG_1503.JPG
 
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