TriumphR3Newb
.040 Over
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Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter TriumphR3Newb
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Ishrub
That's my name ....built like a truck
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Just saw your post catching up. Pretty sure you are off beam re adjustment reequired to the actuator lever on the shift spline.
If you look at it closely you will see that if you move it just one gear tooth in an attempt to make the marks a align better you will actually move them further apart than that currently which is the best alignment possible of those marks and hence correct.
If you look at it closely you will see that if you move it just one gear tooth in an attempt to make the marks a align better you will actually move them further apart than that currently which is the best alignment possible of those marks and hence correct.
Paul Bryant
Living Legend
It seams that there may well be quite a bit going on regarding these Clutch's.
If the clutch is not dis-engaging cleanly and completely, shifting gears, and finding neutral at a stop, is difficult.
My suggestion is to watch and read anything to do with Clutch's and gearbox's.
TriumphR3Newb
.040 Over
A couple of things, I thought that my actuator should be lined up as the pic. My actuator "knob" thingy is rotated counter-clockwise from the pic about 3 or 4 teeth from the dimple on the spline. I tried to adjust this but for some reason could not seem to get enough slack in the clutch cable to rotate the actuator back to line up the marks. Was that a couple of things or just one?
R-III-R Turbo
Mine is the biggest :)
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There is a nice bit of rotational spring tension on the clutch lifter shaft, clockwise as you look at it in that pic.
You'll need to slacken the cable as much as possible at both ends, then unbolt the clutch cable bracket (the thing that holds the cable steady, just above the actuator arm. 2 bolts, hard to get to with rad in the way. you will need to hold the actuator arm up where it is when doing this) and this will allow the lifter shaft to rotate about 120° from working position down to where the tension is gone.
You can then remove the actuator arm bolt completely, slide the actuator arm off the lifter shaft (it's splined) altogether, and put back so the 2 dots line up.
Section 4.6 & 4.7 of manual may be of assistance (download @idk http://www.piano-person.com/r3docs/Service_Manual_R3S_C_T.pdf)
goncallf
.060 Over
Mine is like yours
I don't think you will get better.
The only thing that i notice is when drop the lever just a little bit, the bike starts to run. I would like that the "take off" was more at the middle of the lever as i used to in my others bikes. If someone know hot to do it i apreciate.
Joesmoe
IMOKUR2
I would suggest you want to be extra careful doing anything with the lifter shaft and actuator arm. Curiously, there is nothing retaining the lifter shaft, and if one pulls it out just a little, the spring inside will unseat, and require extra work and care to properly engage the spring (blind) under the clutch cover.
Claviger
Aspiring Student
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Mine was aligned like that from new. If you look carefully you'll see that you can't get them just right. If you move it 1 tooth around, it will be a similar amount off on the other side of the dimple of the shaft.
It's fine as is.
It's fine as is.
R-III-R Turbo
Mine is the biggest :)
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- 2472cc Supercharged Carpenter Rocket III Stroker
I am hoping for some help and advice. I happened to notice that clutch actuator arm (I have no idea what else to call it) is not lined up as it is suppose to be. I have included a pic, I kinda stole off another posting (I hope I didn't break any rules doing that). The mark on the spline does not match up to the notch on the arm. I figured I could simply pull the arm off, rotate it to line up and slide it back into place. Obviously I was thinking I would need some slack so I tried to the adjusting screw by the clutch lever but I did not get enough slack to reposition the arm. I obviously am clueless on this, if anyone could pass on the required process to make the adjustment, I would greatly appreciate it. I am hoping this will improve the shifting.
Mine is like yours
I don't think you will get better.
The only thing that i notice is when drop the lever just a little bit, the bike starts to run. I would like that the "take off" was more at the middle of the lever as i used to in my others bikes. If someone know hot to do it i apreciate.
Guys I may be wrong but his pic was not of his bike, it's someone else's he's borrowed to show what it is supposed to be like.
@goncallf i preferred the clutch bite point ("take off") in the lever to be closer to the handlebar grip too, but correct adjustment (2-3mm free play in the lever) is the critical specification you should meet. this puts the bite point out further, leaving less "feel" but it's the correct place to avoid lifter failure
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
I know whos blower cover and squiggly yeller lines are in the fist picture
