Classics V's Touring Floorboards?

[Tonester]

Hi Guys, I'm loving the site and have learned so much about my new Rocket here... I'm looking at doing the floorboard conversion on my roadster. I prefer the Classic floorboards rather than the 'tear drop' style on the Tourer. A couple of questions; What's the difference between the Classic floorboard position and the Touring floorboard position? Will the Classic floorboards fit on the Touring footrest rails? Thanks!

Cheers
Tony

 

[rocketjohn]

I believe the mounts are totally different between the two styles. It may be you could procure everything, mounting rails and all and make it work, but there were frame changes over the years and the mounting points needed may not be available on your bike. There may yet be a Triumph accessory floorboard kit for your bike; the mix of accessories often changes but it's worth a look. Alternatively Kurakyn may have a splined adapter that would let you use one of their boards if there's any that you like.

 

[1olbull]

FYI -
The "Classic" boards are different from the "Standard" boards.
I prefer the Standard boards and have them on my R3R because they are higher off the pavement and provide me needed additional lean angle.

 

[Tonester]

Thank you for the replies so far guys 'The "Classic" boards are different from the "Standard" boards'... I can't keep up with the differences. I've had a look on the forums but no luck finding detailed info regarding floorboard conversions. I know it is an individual choice especially factoring in individual ergonomics etc. Personally I need to be as comfortable as possible due to having as much metal plates and pins and screws as the Terminator!
I'm happy with the footrest position on my 14 RTR I just prefer the feel of floorboards. This is what I was looking at doing:
1. Fitting Rivco Risers (done)
2. Fitting Classic or Touring bars or having some made by BurleyBars (erring on the Touring if anyone has a set for sale...)
2.Touring floorboard mounting rails
3. Classic floorboards or 'Standard' boards - What's the difference? Pictures?

Thanks!
Tony
P.S. I fitted Rivco risers and it has made a huge difference! If I was keeping the 14 RTR bars I would have sightly longer throttle cables and lengthen the wiring from the right and left switch blocks. They're OK just a little 'snug' for my liking.

 

[1olbull]

OK, Amigo, in spite of your terrible avatar pix of that cop hater, I shall assist.
Pulled from the internet - The first pix is the R3 Standard. The second pix is the R3 Classic.

The engine mounts are the same, but if you zoom in and look closely you shall see that the rails of the Standard rise higher above the pavement than do those of the Classic. Also evident is that the Standard boards are at a slightly steeper angle that those of the Classic. You will need the brake lever and possibly shift lever with either. I bought a straight splined shift lever for a Thunderbird and mounted directly to the shaft protruding from the engine case, eliminating all the linkage of the OEM shift assembly.
NOTES: on the brake side pix the bracket that is needed to connect the master cylinder - also you will likely need to bleed your rear brakes. With ABS the "Dealer Tool" is needed - DealerTool diagnostic access to your ECU, for Triumph, Keihin and Sagem ECUs. Dealer Tool OBD and diagnostic interface for Daytona, 675, sprint, speed triple, bonneville, tiger, Rocket3, Rocket
Here are pix of my set-up:

 

[Mittzy]

OK, Amigo, in spite of your terrible avatar pix of that cop hater, I shall assist.
Pulled from the internet - The first pix is the R3 Standard. The second pix is the R3 Classic.

The engine mounts are the same, but if you zoom in and look closely you shall see that the rails of the Standard rise higher above the pavement than do those of the Classic. Also evident is that the Standard boards are at a slightly steeper angle that those of the Classic. You will need the brake lever and possibly shift lever with either. I bought a straight splined shift lever for a Thunderbird and mounted directly to the shaft protruding from the engine case, eliminating all the linkage of the OEM shift assembly.
NOTES: on the brake side pix the bracket that is needed to connect the master cylinder - also you will likely need to bleed your rear brakes. With ABS the "Dealer Tool" is needed - DealerTool diagnostic access to your ECU, for Triumph, Keihin and Sagem ECUs. Dealer Tool OBD and diagnostic interface for Daytona, 675, sprint, speed triple, bonneville, tiger, Rocket3, Rocket
Here are pix of my set-up:

I recently bled my brakes (Fluid change) with a vacuum set up less than $30 from ebay plug your air compressor into it and away you go - no ABS issues at all.
1L Air Brake Bleeder Kit Pneumatic Clutch Vacuum Hydraulic Fluid Fill Bottle | eBay

 

[warp9.9]

Hmm nice bleeder. I never tried a pneumatic one before. The hand pump ones work real well. The hand pump ones also work well on setting the spring tension in a BOV

 

[Tonester]

I recently bled my brakes (Fluid change) with a vacuum set up less than $30 from ebay plug your air compressor into it and away you go - no ABS issues at all.
1L Air Brake Bleeder Kit Pneumatic Clutch Vacuum Hydraulic Fluid Fill Bottle | eBay

When I put the Rivco risers on I had to disconnect the front brake hose at the master cylinder and relocate it behind the top yoke/triple tree. I fully expected to have to bleed the brakes but to my surprise, I didn't have to. I've checked them and all is OK. What I think has happened is that after I reconnected the hose to the master cylinder, gravity did the work. I had to stop working on my Rocket for a few days, so I can only assume that any air worked its way up and through the master cylinder. The bike was left with the front end turned left on full-lock and being on the side stand the front master cylinder was now fairly elevated. The front brake is firm and no dramas with the ABS system either; however, I wouldn't recommend this and if you don't know what you are doing (especially regarding brake maintenance-bleeding etc.) get it done by a professional. I think I was lucky.

 

[Tonester]

OK, Amigo, in spite of your terrible avatar pix of that cop hater, I shall assist.
Pulled from the internet - The first pix is the R3 Standard. The second pix is the R3 Classic.

The engine mounts are the same, but if you zoom in and look closely you shall see that the rails of the Standard rise higher above the pavement than do those of the Classic. Also evident is that the Standard boards are at a slightly steeper angle that those of the Classic. You will need the brake lever and possibly shift lever with either. I bought a straight splined shift lever for a Thunderbird and mounted directly to the shaft protruding from the engine case, eliminating all the linkage of the OEM shift assembly.
NOTES: on the brake side pix the bracket that is needed to connect the master cylinder - also you will likely need to bleed your rear brakes. With ABS the "Dealer Tool" is needed - DealerTool diagnostic access to your ECU, for Triumph, Keihin and Sagem ECUs. Dealer Tool OBD and diagnostic interface for Daytona, 675, sprint, speed triple, bonneville, tiger, Rocket3, Rocket
Here are pix of my set-up:

I really appreciate the time you took to post all this information. Thank you. As far as my avatar is concerned I don't know about Mr Jackson's opinions and to be honest I'm sick to the back teeth of seeing him in every movie. It's just a character he played... rather well I thought

 

[1olbull]

He did play the Pulp Fiction part well and it made him famous - not smart!