charging system fault

mr hunt

Living Legend
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
2,906
Location
Perth, WA
Ride
2013 Roadster
Ok folks I have a non-charging battery problem.

12.6v across the battery 3 days since bike was last started....so it seems to be holding charge.

While cranking volts dropped to 9 - 10 then steady at 12.3 at idle.

Holding 2000rpm it took about a minute for voltage to rise to 12.9

Had to stop as Mrs Hunt decided it was too hot leaning over the exhaust holding the multimeter probes.

Have removed R/R and completed tests as per the manual and it checks out ok.

From grey connector to engine earth on any of the 3 pins i get open circuit (as opposed to a zero ohm read) and assume this is how it should be??

So my first qu is do i have a failing stator, failing R/R that I've misdiagnosed, or something else entirely?

The bike will run for a few days before the battery is too weak to start it. A few hours trickle charge and she's good to go few more days.
 
...From grey connector to engine earth on any of the 3 pins i get open circuit (as opposed to a zero ohm read) and assume this is how it should be??....

If you are confident in your measurement, then yes, the stator is good and can be eliminated from contention.
Therefor that essentially leaves the Regulator.
(you cannot effectively bench-check a MOSFET SHUNT Regulator)

failed Triumph REGULATOR, RECTIFIER Part # T1300470.

It is really not necessary to buy an OEM R/R - it can be replaced with a genuine Shindengen FH012 or FH020 Form/Fit replacement commonly used on Yamahas and commonly available both new & used on the Internet (just DON'T get one that is cheap Chinese copy of the same - those look similar but you'll know predominantly by the price)

Better is a Series Type Regulator - Shindengen model SH847 - do a search on this forum for details of that device and installation information.
 
If you are confident in your measurement, then yes, the stator is good and can be eliminated from contention.
Therefor that essentially leaves the Regulator.
(you cannot effectively bench-check a MOSFET SHUNT Regulator)



It is really not necessary to buy an OEM R/R - it can be replaced with a genuine Shindengen FH012 or FH020 Form/Fit replacement commonly used on Yamahas and commonly available both new & used on the Internet (just DON'T get one that is cheap Chinese copy of the same - those look similar but you'll know predominantly by the price)

Better is a Series Type Regulator - Shindengen model SH847 - do a search on this forum for details of that device and installation information.

Thanks Ken I followed one of your previous write ups when i was trouble-shooting.

I will track down a series reg and see if that cures the problem
 
....(just DON'T get one that is cheap Chinese copy of the same - those look similar but you'll know predominantly by the price) ....

e.g. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Yamaha-V-Max-V-Star-1300-950-SHINDENGEN-FH012AA/332389988190

Voltage Regulator Rectifier FH012AA for Yamaha YZF XV YFM BMW Motorboat 6604975673487 | eBay

^ Those are absolute garbage!

These seem particularly 'popular' (if that's the right word?) with the OZ guys because the genuine Shindengen near impossible to find there without paying OEM prices and this looks like an attractive option - have had PM's from several different Oz Rocketeers who have tried these and thought, well can't be the R/R since I've replaced it .............
Lots of stories I've come across regarding these, the worst being non-regulation and putting out over 18V!!!!!
 
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M H...I've had a phantom draw on my 05 bike ever since I've owned it. Maybe someday when I have some free time which seems to be never I'll park myself down and try to isolate the cause which for me will never happen..:D As long as I keep it on the trickle charger I'm fine. During storage or any time I'm not near an electric outlet I pull the battery out to keep it charged. Just a little under 12 volts my bike won't start.

 
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M H...I've had a phantom draw on my 05 bike ever since I've owned it. ...

Per OEM equipment there is literally nothing on an R3 that will have any battery drain current - the ONLY thing that has any current is the instruments and that is extremely small just to maintain the memory for the Trip ODO in the instruments. And there is nothing that can really 'fail' that will result in an increased current since nothing is actually connected directly without being enabled by the ignition.
Drains are invariably ALWAYS caused by after-market additions connected directly to the battery.

One VERY common item is the Triumph OEM Alarm which does have a significant current in both standby and armed modes.

Even my own Key-Less system has some draw (it actually pulses, not constant, as its polling for the remote) but not as much as a Triumph OEM alarm - however if left un-tendered or un-ridden for a period of weeks at a time, it will eventually discharge the battery.

USB connections and even items connected to the Diagnostic port can be drain hogs when left un-tendered.

You can't discount the battery itself being the issue - a battery will self-discharge even with no externally detectable drain current - if this is the case it is time for replacement.

p.s. In the OP's case the voltage numbers while running indicate there is DEFINITELY a generating system issue, and this is not a consequence of a battery drain issue.
 
Replacement was a Shindengen FH020.
My bike has no accessories to draw power - mechanic said that failed R/R leads to ignition system remaining energised even with key off. Apparently common fault with Harley's too. I'm no mechanic but replacing the R/R (and nothing else) did resolve the problem.
Repair cost $349
 
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