Changing/removing clutch cable

oradbaforpsoft

.020 Over
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
45
Location
Independence, MO
Ride
2003 Tiger 955i
I was changing out the sport screen for the tall windshield on my roadster and it required rerouting the clutch cable back to it's normal position.
Here's what I did:
I loosened the lock nut at the bottom (engine side) and loosened the adjuster as much as possible - still not a lot of play in the cable.
I then released the locknut on the handlebar lever adjuster, aligned the slots in the adjuster and the locknut. So far so good...
The instructions then say "Pull the clutch lever and turn the inner cable anticlockwise through the slots in the adjuster and locknut until the inner cable can be detached from the lever" Yeah, right!
I pulled the clutch cable and no amount of twisting the cable made anything happen to the inner cable. I eventually wrapped a cloth over the adjusting housing and used a vice grips to turn it out - not too easy. Once out I used a dental-pick tool to pop out the end of the cable from the lever and then was able to reroute it.

Can anyone please tell this noob (with pictures if possible) how to get just the cable to pop out without having to remove the adjuster? Obviously it must be possible.

Thanks:confused:
 
I do it by pulling in on the clutch lever before loosening the adjuster, holding the cable with something, and then releasing the lever while spinning the adjuster nut. It usually has enough play in it then to slip it out of the notch. It does take me a couple tries sometimes.
 
That does help - I am not crazy

I do it by pulling in on the clutch lever before loosening the adjuster, holding the cable with something, and then releasing the lever while spinning the adjuster nut. It usually has enough play in it then to slip it out of the notch. It does take me a couple tries sometimes.

What 'something' do you use to hold the inner cable ? The tension on my cable seems enough to cut through puny flesh.
 
What 'something' do you use to hold the inner cable ? The tension on my cable seems enough to cut through puny flesh.
Your right, the R3 has a very stiff clutch ... my smaller bikes can be held with simple pliers or in some cases just fingers. But in this situation grabbing the whole cable right at the top of it and pulling it straight out while pumping the clutch lever might work the best. Line up the slots on the adjuster, grab the cable with one hand and the lever in the other. At the same time you release pressure on the lever, pull the cable sheath hard out of the adjuster. You may have to do it a couple times, but when the sheath end clears the inner adjuster, slip the cable forward out through the slot. Reassemble by reversing the process, hook the cable end into the lever and pull the cable sheath, extending the cable, and drop it back into the adjuster end. Spinning the adjuster in will relieve some of the tension and make it easier to remove and reassemble. Last time I did it, I also used my foot against the bell-crank lever down on the block to help relieve more tension. You could grab the lever with vise grips or pliers but that would leave marks, so I just use my boot.
Let me know if this helps.
 
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Thanks

That makes sense - I'll give it a whirl - my 16year old can be the boot and extra set of hands.

I ended up loosening the bottom cable a lot. Used my son to act as the 'boot' on the engine side, and fully tightened the adjusting knob into the clutch lever at the top. I was then able to pull the clutch lever and the cable - and it came loose - much easier than last time. I guess knowing it can be done helps a lot!

Thanks again
 
Glad it worked out for you, next time will be easier ..... practice makes perfect. LOL
Be sure that it isn't dragging on the bearing when it's all adjusted, it needs a little play so it doesn't wear it out. Too tight will keep the bearing engaged and too loose will drag the clutches, it's one of those "goldielocks adjustments".
 
When I mountedd my fly screen, I omitted that step. I Just spreadd the spring guide and slipped it over the cable and with the bolts loose, I then put it in place and tightened the bolts to the screen. My cable is through the guide. I wonder if I did something wrong.lol Nope, looks just like the picture. I was taking my cable soose when I thought of this. Really simple.
Later
 
I just run my clutch cable on the outside of the little bracket on the fly screen. When I used to have the Roadster screen, I would just remove the 4 bolts and swap them out from time to time. I now just run the fly screen, but i leave the clutch cable on the outside of the little wire bracket and it works just fine.. 56,000 miles and counting.. :)
 
This time round I followed Franks advice - I have the cable through both guides - the normal one and the sport screen. When I take the sport screen off next week for my trip to Houston, I will slip it off and spread the spring guide. As a noob I am finally figuring out some of the shortcuts.
 
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