Central Sump Bolt Oil Leak

[ThisGuy]

I thought my oil leak was from an old repair I did patching a previous leak on the sump (damage from impacting a sliding security gate track). Turns out it’s coming from a sump bolt about six inches straight back from the oil tank drain plug (2005, old sump layout).

Central Sump Bolt

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

2005 R3, old sump layout, six inches back from oil tank drain plug.

There’s no way it was damaged from an impact, as it’s up between the fins with no damage anywhere around. There's also no damage at all around the hole once I removed the bolt.

I got the oil drained today and pulled the bolt, and saw the following:

Sump Bolt Defect

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

It seems like this groove allowed a very slow oil drip between the head and the washer.

What I’m assuming is the small groove in the head was enough of a gap to channel oil between it and the washer and drip very, very slowly.

Does this seem right? The bolt was torqued higher than spec. I didn’t get a click when testing it, where most of the outer sump bolts were a bit loose. Could it be related to it being over-torqued, or do you think it was just a defective screw?

My plan for now is to degrease it thoroughly, use a tiny blob of epoxy putty to fill the gap, smooth it out, clean/deoxidize the copper washer, and reinstall. I just received a parts order and don’t really want to spend another $15 and wait a week if this repair can work at least for now, if not for good. The money’s not a big deal, but I have such a long list of projects to get the bike back in shape, I’m pinching pennies wherever possible, and I really don’t want to give up another week waiting to get it running.

The one thing I assumed is if I replace the hardware, it’s best to order the correct parts, and not head down to the hardware store and improvise. I try to do things right. (Ok ok, you may be smirking at me now saying that after I just talked about epoxy putty…)

Thoughts?

 

[scot in exile]

I have no problem using the OEM parts but I also have no problem using the equivalent from a local hardware store or motorcycle dealer, and yes over torquing is just as bad if not worse than not tightening enough.
good luck

 

[Nat67]

That sump washer is copper , if used a few times it will leak ! Lay off the epoxy and try this , hold the washer up with a piece of wire and heat it with a blow lamp until it glows cherry red and then drop it into cold water .
This process is called annealing , and will make the washer soft enough to squish back up nicely when you torque the bolt !

 

[warp9.9]

I am wondering why the sump gasket is not holding it and of course if like the newer ones has part of the sump gasket that covers the area.

let me run up some pictures in case this is confusing.

 

[warp9.9]

ok I believe this is your bolt hole two views

first from outside

if I am right then this is a shot from the inside

so here is a shot of the newer style sump pan 2006 model note the gasket still remaining on the bolt surface? this tells me yours is leaking from the gasket !!!!!

I think I would just order a new sump gasket and change it. and while your in there clean out the sump screens. This can be done while the bike is on its side stand easy job just don't forget any of the bolts.

red arrows point out areas you can pry the sump loose with a flat blade screw driver.
Hope this helps

 

[IMFASTTOO]

I thought my oil leak was from an old repair I did patching a previous leak on the sump (damage from impacting a sliding security gate track). Turns out it’s coming from a sump bolt about six inches straight back from the oil tank drain plug (2005, old sump layout).

Central Sump Bolt

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

2005 R3, old sump layout, six inches back from oil tank drain plug.

There’s no way it was damaged from an impact, as it’s up between the fins with no damage anywhere around. There's also no damage at all around the hole once I removed the bolt.

I got the oil drained today and pulled the bolt, and saw the following:

Sump Bolt Defect

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

It seems like this groove allowed a very slow oil drip between the head and the washer.

What I’m assuming is the small groove in the head was enough of a gap to channel oil between it and the washer and drip very, very slowly.

Does this seem right? The bolt was torqued higher than spec. I didn’t get a click when testing it, where most of the outer sump bolts were a bit loose. Could it be related to it being over-torqued, or do you think it was just a defective screw?

My plan for now is to degrease it thoroughly, use a tiny blob of epoxy putty to fill the gap, smooth it out, clean/deoxidize the copper washer, and reinstall. I just received a parts order and don’t really want to spend another $15 and wait a week if this repair can work at least for now, if not for good. The money’s not a big deal, but I have such a long list of projects to get the bike back in shape, I’m pinching pennies wherever possible, and I really don’t want to give up another week waiting to get it running.

The one thing I assumed is if I replace the hardware, it’s best to order the correct parts, and not head down to the hardware store and improvise. I try to do things right. (Ok ok, you may be smirking at me now saying that after I just talked about epoxy putty…)

Thoughts?

A permanet easy fix is teflon tape no epoxy please

 

[warp9.9]

Seriously since the sump pan took a wack and you already know the gasket has failed. (Leaking is obvious) there are a bunch of half arsed ways of doing this. If it was my bike and it was a 05 and never had the sump pan off (not sure from your post) I wouldn't hesitate to splurge on a 20 dollar gasket to be able to clean and inspect the sump screens.

 

[Triple Trouble]

I thought my oil leak was from an old repair I did patching a previous leak on the sump (damage from impacting a sliding security gate track). Turns out it’s coming from a sump bolt about six inches straight back from the oil tank drain plug (2005, old sump layout).

Central Sump Bolt

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

2005 R3, old sump layout, six inches back from oil tank drain plug.

There’s no way it was damaged from an impact, as it’s up between the fins with no damage anywhere around. There's also no damage at all around the hole once I removed the bolt.

I got the oil drained today and pulled the bolt, and saw the following:

Sump Bolt Defect

• ThisGuy
• Apr 24, 2017

It seems like this groove allowed a very slow oil drip between the head and the washer.

What I’m assuming is the small groove in the head was enough of a gap to channel oil between it and the washer and drip very, very slowly.

Does this seem right? The bolt was torqued higher than spec. I didn’t get a click when testing it, where most of the outer sump bolts were a bit loose. Could it be related to it being over-torqued, or do you think it was just a defective screw?

My plan for now is to degrease it thoroughly, use a tiny blob of epoxy putty to fill the gap, smooth it out, clean/deoxidize the copper washer, and reinstall. I just received a parts order and don’t really want to spend another $15 and wait a week if this repair can work at least for now, if not for good. The money’s not a big deal, but I have such a long list of projects to get the bike back in shape, I’m pinching pennies wherever possible, and I really don’t want to give up another week waiting to get it running.

The one thing I assumed is if I replace the hardware, it’s best to order the correct parts, and not head down to the hardware store and improvise. I try to do things right. (Ok ok, you may be smirking at me now saying that after I just talked about epoxy putty…)
A new washer will fix it. Available from any auto supply.

Thoughts?

 

[ThisGuy]

Thanks for the great replies. In my last parts order I did actually get a new gasket… figured there was a good chance I'd want to take it off to clean/inspect/repair whatever the leak turned out to be. Just replacing that should fix the problem, but I'll probably implement a couple of the other suggestions as well for a bit of belt and suspenders.

Thanks again! I'll update when it's done with whatever I find inside.

 

[warp9.9]

Thanks for the great replies. In my last parts order I did actually get a new gasket… figured there was a good chance I'd want to take it off to clean/inspect/repair whatever the leak turned out to be. Just replacing that should fix the problem, but I'll probably implement a couple of the other suggestions as well for a bit of belt and suspenders.

Thanks again! I'll update when it's done with whatever I find inside.

Triumph says to use new sump screen bolts. I use the old ones plus some medium grade thread locker.