Cam chain tensioner check

[Ridefree]

Hi All, I just want to find out for sure if I can remove the center bolt that holds the spring against the tensioner plunger without having to lock the cams down as long as i don't remove the body. From what I've read on this forum it sounds like the ratchet will hold tension on the chain even if the center bolt and spring is removed. I am hearing some chain noise between 1200 - 1300 RPM when cold on my 2013 R3T w/ 12500 miles on it. I was thinking I would check the plunger depth and and push on it lightly to see if it would go to the next ratchet tooth. Can you guys tell me if I'm thinking along the right lines on this and understanding this correctly.
Thanks in advance, Ridefree

 

[rolandrat]

Hi All, I just want to find out for sure if I can remove the center bolt that holds the spring against the tensioner plunger without having to lock the cams down as long as i don't remove the body. From what I've read on this forum it sounds like the ratchet will hold tension on the chain even if the center bolt and spring is removed. I am hearing some chain noise between 1200 - 1300 RPM when cold on my 2013 R3T w/ 12500 miles on it. I was thinking I would check the plunger depth and and push on it lightly to see if it would go to the next ratchet tooth. Can you guys tell me if I'm thinking along the right lines on this and understanding this correctly.
Thanks in advance, Ridefree

yes your thinking is correct.

 

[Ridefree]

Thankyou for your reply. I will try it today after work. Just wanted to be sure b4 I took any thing apart
Thanks, Ridefree

 

[rolandrat]

try putting the bike in a high gear and pull it backwards turning the engine, the tensioner may take up the slack this way before you remove the centre bolt.if no better measure as you said but don't turn the engine without the bolt.

 

[Ridefree]

That was the first thing I tried because I had read about it on this forum but it didn't seem to make any difference.

 

[warp9.9]

If you do pull the center bolt and spring out, do not turn the bike over or rock it back and forth until you put the bolt back in. Myself I would not try to force it to the next tooth but its your call. You need to measure the drop of the plunger to see if its gone past 16 mm if so then there is a spacer you add to return the spring tension to original tension. Since yours is a 2013 I suspect the drop has not gone to far. How many miles are on it? I must ask is the rattle on the left of the engine or the right ?(as you sit on it)

 

[Ridefree]

Hi Warp,
I just came in from the garage checking this thing out. I decided not to push it to the next tooth (after I measured the plunger depth at the shoulder) because of fear I might put to much pressure against the guide and chain and the ratchet would hold it there. I came up with 18.2 mm with my digital micrometer. The bike has 12500 miles on it and I hear the noise on the right side as I sit on it. It does it when it's cold and is mostly gone when it's all warmed up. My wife and I are leaving in few days on a 2000 mile trip so I wanted to address this noise before we went. I appreciate your input on this issue.
Thanks, Ridefree

 

[warp9.9]

Hi Warp,
I just came in from the garage checking this thing out. I decided not to push it to the next tooth (after I measured the plunger depth at the shoulder) because of fear I might put to much pressure against the guide and chain and the ratchet would hold it there. I came up with 18.2 mm with my digital micrometer. The bike has 12500 miles on it and I hear the noise on the right side as I sit on it. It does it when it's cold and is mostly gone when it's all warmed up. My wife and I are leaving in few days on a 2000 mile trip so I wanted to address this noise before we went. I appreciate your input on this issue.
Thanks, Ridefree

Its not to far out but it is time for the spacer to go in. Instead of getting raped from Triumph just get a 10 mm bolt with a section of non threaded shank. The spacer is .390" in diameter and .355" long it will fit right down inside the plunger so the spring compresses more. Its a OEM replacement size so if you make any errors make it a wee bit shorter. You will be fine for the ride either way but if you have the time install the spacer.

 

[Gregger]

Any idea why the cam chain tensioner would need a spacer with only 12500 miles on it? Shouldn't the spring tension be good enough for at least 100k before shims are needed? I can see the need for valve shims to need adjustment early on in the life of the engine but a cam chain tensioner???

 

[Rocket Scientist]

I have a couple of shims already made up. PM me your address and I'll send you one.